What about find a kitchen oven or one that works on 120v and just make it bigger
why did you use a plastic top for the pressure pot vac chamber? Why not just use the steel lid that comes with it?
because i want to be able to see inside the chamber during degassing. in case it starts boiling over, i can control the vacuum with the ball valve.
i thought about that. for my powder coating oven. i wonder if i could use the ove for both? powder and cure?
I don’t see why not … Doesn’t powder coat cure at 350f??
i cure mine at 400…
hey dallas…duratec is the SH*T!!! it looks beautiful!:D:D:D:D:D
I know sometimes we might not have all the answers but 50% of the time, we are right everytime.
If you sprayed it good wet sand 2500 and polish it out. That stuff can get glossy if you let it.
i just recieved my 2.5mm tip for my hvlp paint gun. so i was able to shoot the duratec primer on my mold.
the mold was sanded with 180 sand paper then wiped clean with acetone. sorry no pictures of it sanded.
then i mixed 75% primer with 25% high gloss additive. totalling 1 pint. (i used about 2/3 of the pint) i catelized it with 2 teaspoons (10 ml) of mekp. 40 lbs air pressure, 2.5 mm tip, and about a 3 inch fan. the whole operation took about 15 minutes. ambient temp was/is 90 degrees, and i shot it in the shade.
hows this look dallas? this is the first time i have ever held an hvlp gun in my hand…well second time. i shot some pva with it but that dosnt really count. i have certanley never painted or primed anything.
anyways…
oh yaaa. my horn button. im sure it will be replaced once i get better at this…
honestly…im afraid to touch it with sand paper. i dont want to jack it up:o.
It looks good don’t get me wrong but… I see a bit of surface texture. I would wet sand it smooth at least. I’m not telling you to block it just wet sand it smooth. I think you should at least give it a shot on the flange and polish it to a shine and you’ll see what I mean.
I know how eager you are to start infusion!!! And making parts.
Which brings me to the trick I mentioned a week ago that I’d sell you… But you must have patients
yes there is some surface texture dallas. you just will not let me half ass this thing. LOL…
i totally a appreciate that:D
ok…i dont know the difference between blocking and wet sanding. could you explaine that to me???:o
what grit sand paper should i use? remember, everything has to be done by hand. i dont have any buffing or beautifying tools.
besides, that will give me a little time for me to save up for the trick your gonna sell me. LOL…i hope its not more than my unemployment check…BAAHAAHAA
You need to use a guide coat to sand the surface texture away.
Use a fine mist of white spray paint and dust your mold. Mainly just the bowls. Then wetsand smooth with 2000- and the. 2500 grit. You can go down to 800 and work up but there is no way you mess it up if you stay fine grit and get a feel for it. That 1/2 lip around the parts is where I see you having release issues with the surface texture. Those fine waves of primer will grab when your trying to demold.
Getting this surface perfect largely determines how long the mold will last as a smoother surface has less friction on demold.
Sand it and polish it Doug. Fight the urge I know you are feeling anxious but this is the last step of the process. Don’t fall off the wagon just yet.
If you sand to deep in a spot you can touch the primer up no problem.
Sand it smooth Doug. You’ll thank me later.
Guide coat is my trick… Its the oldest trick in the book for doing body work.
Basically you use two contrasting colors to visually see high and low spots. When your guide coat is sanded away no more sanding.
Blocking is how you get a car perfectly straight. You primer and then apply a guide coat. Take a flat foam block and sand. The flat block levels and once you get through the primer and low spots are revealed.
That’s blocking.
In your case the guide coat will tell you when to quit sanding. So you don’t go through the primer.
You owe me right about tree fiddy for that.
Your not blocking save that for when you paint your porche. Just wetsanding by hand with a guide coat to remove material evenly and accurately.
ok my friend 2000 then 2500… do i just fold the paper and use my hand? or do i use my little rubber/foam sanding block under it? its kinda tight in there.
your right…i want the mold to last as long as possible. maybe i could sell a few pairs of these things and recoup a little cheddar. right
i am anxious. but i am more nervous about skipping a step and f*cking this mold up. i have alot of time in it…ALOT!
thank you OB1
you were still posting when i replied…i got it now…
Tear the paper in small squares to get in there. You can use a small piece of wood or cut a sponge or foam into the shape you need. The edges if the paper will scratch lines… Pay attention. But fingers and scrap foam is gonna work the best for your project.
Advance auto has paper in the paint isle. If your lucky they have a mixed pack. Get that and 2500. That stuff is super fine.