thanks dallas, more like faking it…hehehe
TwoDollar, Thanks for the link to the fuel resistant resin, thats very close to what I was looking for but the post cure temp is stopping me. 100C isnt something I can manage in my garage right now. I have been looking at making an oven but after spending what I have on fibre, resin, extra fuel tank, cutting boards, etc, etc,etc,etc. Im going to have to draw the line somewhere and start actually making something to justify buying more xxxx!! Im already looking at the HF two stage pump!!
Ray
Well make sure the glass is tempered so it doesn’t break cause I was only talking a small panel before. I’ve broken glass demolding and it could have gone bad.:wondering: Now I have a large sheet of 1/2" tempered. Thanks for the link for the plexi looks like they have some real good prices.
I put breather over what I think will be the problem areas. Only because it doesn’t waste very much of my breather and it has been the easiest for me to do. The new MTI hose from Dominik works great and their was no problem areas with the bag. Maybe you can use yellow bag tape to make plugs with peel ply?
i just pmed him for a sample of the mti hose.
what do you use for release agent. i just ordered 4 cans of frekote 770. the 770 should work no?
also did i mention i got 1/2" plexiglass for the degasser?
tempered glass costs quite a bit more eh? demolding must take quite a bit of force… what about a big chunk of aluminum? nah i would probly scratch to easy…steel?
4 cans :eek: spray or liquid in a can? Becarfull if its the spray can cause the overspray can mold release things you don’t want released. Like the plys you are about to infuse. :sick: You also want to get the Frekote sealer if your using this on your mold so the release works correct. I’ve never sealed glass when using Frekote and it releases so good that the panels come off with the bag when I pull the bag off. Same goes for molded parts the Frekote works AMAZING, but I seal any molds with the Frekote sealer. I try to use Frekote as much as I can.
Yeah tempered is more but I can use razor blades on the glass and not be worried about scratches.
Sorry for the late reply.
The resin is just a standard epoxy infusion resin with a tg approx 75 deg after post cure. I believe the tank is holding up fine, we use the same resins to fab the fuel tanks in offshore race boats. We use an epoxy fuel resistant coating on the inside, no bladder. Good for no more than 98 octane fuel. (well maybe a bit more but not much)
One team put 110 octane in on a friday for a test session and on monday the cell had turned to rubber but at 98 they are lasting over 10 years now.
You can see a seam line running verticaly on the tank. It’s hard to explain the join but if you hold out two fingers on one hand and slide one finger from the other hand between them that’s how it is. The client is a cnc machinist so he made the tooling and the aluminium fittings. The fittings have a simple flange on them and are bonded in with rubber toughened epoxy adhesive then one layer of laminate over the back face of the flange back onto the inside of the tank. hope some of that makes sence!!
i didnt think about overspray… do you use the frekote 700 or 770?? where do you get it from? i could only find the 770 in airesol cans. i wanted the liquid…
i just canceled the spray cans. not a bad price tho…7 bucks a can…
All he was saying is spray them outside out of the shop. Also mask your mold so the tacky tape grabs. Still release the area just mask from the freekote!!!
Nothing ive used leaves a streak free surface like freekote when it’s sprayed. One can can last a while.
well sh*t…im a spaz…:o.
Dallas was right I didn’t mean for you to cancel. But oh well your getting enough Freekote now to last a year or more.
Dallas do you buff after applying Freekote? I can’t get a gloss finish unless I buff and after buffing no streaks are left.
Yeah with a cotton ball. I used to use cheese cloth but it leaves streaks. I also like to warm the mold in the oven for an hour or so after spray and then dab another bit on with the cotton balls.
Then it’s straight to the clean room while the molds are warm.
No heat gun baby. But you gotta be smooth you get one chance on placement. Or the ply is screwed. Uni on a warm mold is a one shot deal as well.
As far as buffing freekote… No just a quick rub with a wet cotton ball so I can see the freekote evaporating and I run it over. I also freekote everytime not everyother pull. It’s too easy.
Come on Doug how’d the infusion turn out??? Did the resin cure?
i think it turned out pretty good dallas. and it seemed like it cured ok…
. 2 hours at 171 and then 1 hour at 212. how can you tell if its cured?
here some pix…
my high tech heating system.
checking the temp…
after the cure…
i made a little horn button cover. this is with 2 coats of rustolium clear. the surface was a little dull. i just wiped the pva on with a rag, on top of a piece of painted steel. so i didnt start off with an ideal surface…is clear coating cheating?
Nice. Looks as it should. Trial run should give same results. I would think. And no clear is not cheating it is necessary in my opinion for parts that need a finish.
How cool would it to have a controller that raised and lowered the light from a thermocouPle???
Yeah what I thought… Real cool!!!
hmmmmm…
i was even thinking about building a kind of hood out of aluminum. like a box. and adding a few more lights. for bigger parts…
i like the thermal couple idea…ALOT…wheels are turning dallas:D.
it worked out really well. maybe 5 minutes raising and lowering to dial in the temp. i dont think i could go more than 220 degrees. 212 was about 8 inches above the part. so it was pretty concentrated. thats when i thought about loosing the shields and mounting the fixtures in some kind of box.
You would deffinately get the heat up if you boxed it in. Aluminum with pink foam board would probably fit the bill. I bet you could rig heat lamps to a dial controller like on a buffet food warmer setup. Thermocouple and a display could let you know what’s going on inside the bag. Lol
I see a steampunk oven in the works!!! Lol
You would deffinately get the heat up if you boxed it in. Aluminum with pink foam board would probably fit the bill. I bet you could rig heat lamps to a dial controller like on a buffet food warmer setup. Thermocouple and a display could let you know what’s going on inside the bag. Lol
I see a steampunk oven in the works!!! Lol
;)
yup :D:D
ooooooh! idea!!!
there is a used restaurant supply company kind close…if they had an old buffet table, i could cut it up and make the hood out of STAINLESS:eek::eek:. then rob the controls out of it.
next time im out that way im gonna see what they have. craiglist maybe.