she’s ready for wax and making parts.
I’ve been making about one mold every two to three days.
This is a car part mold and that’s about all i can say about this mold.
if your going to use protective gear like that mask laying on your table… i would suggest whenever you take it off, store it in a clean box, or away from a table that most likely gets a lot of fiber…
aside from that nice mold.
that is my biz partners mask… he can be an idiot sometimes; but yeah keeping the masks inside a sealed ziploc type bag is best.
That’s your plug right? The mold is yet to be made it seems.
is this for infusion? why did you make the flange so small on the front? looks like you could bearly get the tape on it. I am not knocking your product by anymeans!! just wondering
yeah I like my flanges larger than this, but this is the size board we had to work with. We will do wet lay up and then use an envelope bag with this mold.
On some parts it just doesn’t feel worth the time to set up for infusion.
The higher quality, lower void content, resin savings, and cleaner process are always worth it!
Looks like a bug deflector mounted on a piece of melamine, sprayed with black gel, with a good polish job. The larger flanges would have been worth it down the road.
A new mold I just completed today… Again not much flange area because i was in a hurry to make this mold and i had to use the piece of plywood i had laying around the shop to make the plug, a little small. Next mold I will make better flanges. I also finished up two other molds yesterday, but can’t post pics of those. this one is a female mold made with Tooling PER gel coat, Tooling PER resin, CSM, and triaxial fiberglass cloth, I only used two layers of the triaxial glass, and two layers of 1.5oz csm.
If I had my way I would have added one more layer of triaxial glass, but I ran out of resin.
http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/bb186/Fastrr_photos/?action=view¤t=moldZa1003.jpg
Nah this will be the mold, it is male. I think it should be made complete FRP but the guy I work with wanted to just use the wood as a flange… yep I know it will seperate in time from the wood.
We need to make a new mold anyhow after say 10 parts are pulled off this one. At least this way we recover our money and time into this one.
I would like to eventually make some of the molds from steel or aluminum, that way they can be infused with epoxy and shoved into an oven for curing. Vinyl ester resin is ok, but it doesn’t really wet the materials out very well… carbon never absorbs vinyl ester resin, it just encases the carbon fiber.
what VER are you using? I have not really had a problem with wetout on mine. I use an orca VER
When you have a part you can destroy break it and see what i mean, the carbon will not splinter it will tear with VER and you will see the fibers are not hard in the cured part.
We are using Composites One VER…not sure who makes it for them but the bucket comes labeled as composites one.
next you’ll want a FARO arm to CAD all your parts, and models!!
if you want VER to work, you need to get your carbon sized for VER!!! Most generic CF’s are sized for epoxy. I’ve had very good luck wit CF and VER with the correct sizing on the fibers from the manufacturer
It sure does come in handy. But right now it’s just collecting dust. 
ah VER is nice, but i hate the smell AND the colour.
So what are you using?
We mainly use VER for the infused parts, and epoxy occasionally. The smell is not realy an issue with infusion, and the color shouldn’t be visible on a finished part.
For infusion i use epoxy (HT2 is the code, from R-G) nice and thin. For layup, they have a more viscous epoxy called L.
Sits in a corner waiting to be used for something cool:
ok, well then give it to me, so I can reverse model my bike parts, so I don’t have to do it from scratch, whenever I figure out why CATIA won’t install on my computer.
I don’t know what a Faro Arm is but it sure looks cool. 
What does it do? And when do i get a passenger ride in the GT3 or Ferari TET? 