Infusing parts leaves a good strong finish, but I know a lot of people on here also clear coat the parts once done. I was wondering if you could brush on some resin and then sand and buff for additional protection? I ask this because I don’t have a spray guy or paint booth and I don’t think a rattle can clear coat will be high enough quality.
Thanks!
Sanding and buffing resin is way more difficult than clear coating and also you don’t get any uv protection. Better spray few more coats with a rattle can and then buff it, you will get better results.
Ok, maybe I can give that a try. I wonder what the best quality rattle can clear coat is. I think you may be able to buy auto grade in a can but not sure.
Its sounds like you want the IMC that DDCompound uses. http://www.hp-textiles.com/shop/index.php?cat=c784_In-mould-coating--IMC-Coat--In-mould-coating--IMC-Coat-.html
No need for clear coats after demould… I can’t wait to get my hands on it.
dpaine are you from Georgia the country or the US state? :wondering:
Interesting, so you spray that in the mold before laying the material and infusing? Pretty cool.
Im in the US, right outside of Atlanta, GA.
Nope you dont have to spray it, you jut paint it in the mould so you don’t have to invest in a spray system just to clear coat. Paint the mould, lay up, infuse, cure, demould, trim, done… No need for all that wet sanding clear coating, wet sanding, clear coating, etc… Lots of extra work.
Very cool, can you brush in any automotive clear coat or does it need to be thst special kind of clear coat?
A normal automotiv clear coat may work, but will have some disadvantages. The adhesion to the Epoxi is not very good and you have to go on with work until it is tack.
Automotive Clear won’t work this way because it’s way too thin to stay in place, especially in vertical surfaces.
You could use UV Clear Gel Coat, Just like tnt said.
I spray clear coats into molds every working day of my life. 
All kinds to paints too. My shop never-ever paints anything after demolding…unless we mess something up. I’ve never had an adhesion issue with epoxy. I’ve done oodles of testing to confirm the bond. The bond is better than spraying it on after cure…at least with the products that I use. I cure PPG Deltron DC3000 urethane in 15 minutes with an IR lamp after flash.
Adam
Same here…except we use Endura…makes for a pin-hole free infusion and easy final clear app. Hey Adam, I read about using the poly-tubing as a bag, with the 4 mil thickness does ever leak? I liked that idea, way easier for sealing bags for envelope infusions…
I got my last batch for Aurora Plastics & Packaging. The outer few feet on the roll can have holes in it due to mishandling in someones warehouse. Once you strip that off the rest is good to go. Who knows who makes it for them or if their suppliers change. As long as I don’t put a hole in it they’ve been good. I use the same material for making bladders for composite tubes.
Adam
Thanks for sharing all these useful tips.
this coating is it available to the US?
I’ve been thinking I want to try to apply urethane pre-infusion, so I painted some urethane, waited over night and infused a small corner of an old mold. This morning it was a huge mess! 
Almost un-demoldable! --But, I’m to blame.
Blunder #1:
As I was pouring hardener into the cup on the scale, I spilled a little. So, after hitting my number, I went across the room to grab a rag with vinegar and I wiped the small spill, then started to pour in the resin. When my gaze shifted from the pouring to look at the weight, I realized the scale had timed out and shut off! @#$! Dang it! Unfortunately, instead of actually thinking, (i.e. doing some math, etc.), like a fool who’s done too much PE in hot weather, I panicked and guessed. (Dumb, Dumb, Dumb!!!) So, I knew the casting would be punky.
Blunder #2:
Months ago I asked someone, (not here), what they used to fix small blemishes. Minwax Spar Urethane. I now suspect that’s not a compatible material?? (I no longer consult that person, BTW! 
)
Anyway, I’m not sure if it was my epoxy blunder, or the urethane choice, but the finish was an awful golden brown, stinky mess! (At least where it stayed on the casting anyway!)
What you use is a two part urethane material? I suspect you also accurately measure your resin, and not pour expensive stuff together and hope it’ll just work?
I want to try it again, (after I finish scraping my mold), but I obviously don’t want a repeat performance. Is the product you use fairly idiot proof? I need the UV protection and doing it in the mold sounds like the ticket.
I use single component lacquers and 2K urethanes depending on the demands and expectations of the structure. Not all paint-resin combinations work well. Some will end up tacky, soft, or foggy. Dupli-color Paint shop clear, for example, is hazy with Adtech 820, pefectly clear and hard with MGS L285, and tacky with USC 635. 2K paints are typically less finicky. I use PPG Deltron DC3000 for clean and Deltron Single Stage 2K for color. Klass Kote epoxy paint works well with most resins but doesn’t have good releases with semi-permanents on certain mold surface coats.
I always layup small flat test molds when making a mold. I can then use these test molds to test release/paint/resin combinations before committing them to the primary mold. I’d recommend doing some testing first.
How soon after spraying the clear can you start laying in the fabric etc? Say for a wet layup mold?
If it cures and I have to scuff, I’m worried about scratches showing
It depends on the clear-coat and how it is cured. With lacquer I often do the layup after about 1 hour. I either IR cure 2K or force cure it with heat. I have done layups within 30 minutes with this technique. I’ve also let these set for days before doing the layup. I use epoxy so the bonding to the paint has always been good. Many people let 2K cure for 12 to 24 hours before proceeding. Typically you at least want the paint to be dry to the touch.
Again, test it to see how your resin and paint get a long. You can also use .014" mylar to perform test samples. Wax it, shoot several squares with your paint, and then do simple hand layups on them at different time intervals with your resin. Once cured peel them off and see how they look, feel, and bond.
Adam
PM dpaine. I know he was selling the MTI hose until the USA dist. was set up so he might also have some of this.