Hi troy. I’m sorry but its bad idea to make it like you said. If you are not going to make huge super stiff overlap the frame will probably crack in the middle. You need special glue like Loctite Hysol (structural adhesive).
Focus on unidirectional carbon fiber, if you choose right directions it will be super stiff and lightweight.
I dont have idea how experienced you are in composites, but it look like you are a bit ,hot minded, so calm down and re-think every step. Its better to try your idea on a smaller tubular part with complex shape. Use composite (fiberglass-epoxy) molds. You will save tons of money. You really dont need metal tooling for YOUR idea (not talking about piece of art frames). Dont be much confused if it will not work as you think.
Also layup is a really big deal. Its not so easy to choose layer orientation. Place most of material in ,tube axis, direction, few in ±45deg for torsional stiffness and few perpendicular to axis for hoop strength and more damage resistance.
Hey Mike , thanks for Your answer : )Check out this pic http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/3739/viewpic87vn0.jpg
It is a Lahar MK9 from back . In the top of the picture , You can see , that its made of 2 halfs . Question is - its bonded with single or double lap joint . I had heard , that its probably one of the best ways to achieve very good bonding between 2 halfs of composite . I can do a single lap joint(about 1-1,5cm wide) like in this picture - http://www.tfhrc.gov/structur/pubs/04098/images/fig103.jpg or double - http://www.tfhrc.gov/structur/pubs/04098/images/fig111.jpg
I can make both halfs without 1st layer of carbon twill . Then , after bonding the halfs , i can do a wet layup with this twill , and vacum bag it , then again , put some gelcoat and polish it . Btw , what do u think , about those carbon-vectran layers ? I want to use them , because it has veeeery good impact resistance (vectran has 90% of carbon fiber stiffnes and 90% of kevlar/aramide impact resistance). I dont want to use fiberglass epoxy molds , because i would have to make a core of the frame myself . It has very complex shapes and it would be pain in the ass to do that :s It is much easier for me to make 2 negative molds , milled in hard wood ( wich is not so expensive here (i will pay something like 60euros for milling and 140 for wood) . About metal inserts/tooling , its nesesery , because it has gear box in the main triangle . I need bb of 100mm diameter and 100mm wide , so i cant put in there all this stuff that i’ve made.Dont want to cement the bearing directly to the carbon , because it would be super hard to get them out in case of some damage or abundant wear . About directions of layers , its exactly what i was thinking about : )
none of the pictures work??\