no no…i have regular mold release wax AND pva. i thought the turtle wax was to polish the plugs?
i need to get my terminology down. cuz now im confused…
Yes you can polish with a automotive polish/compound then release wax over that! Then pva so long as the pva and release wax don’t react.
Just a sec and let me go check product combinations I know that works.
Valspar plastilease, and zyvax watershield both work over turtlewax. When I don’t spray freekote I use plastilease.
Or I just use turtle wax for release. I haven’t used pva for a while. But it sounds like your plan will work just fine!
thanks dallas i just got back from the auto parts store…i got rubbing compound and polishing compound for the molds. THEN i put on the release wax and pva correct? this is what i have for release- http://cgi.ebay.com/MOLD-RELEASE-FIBERGLASS-CASTING-WAX-RELEASE-FILM-KIT-/310213147747?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483a24fc63
im getting closer:D:D:D
Good… Rubbing compound is bad. It’s Very abrasive. Probably more so than wet sanding with 2000 grit. Hand rub polishing compound and wax with the Mold wax. They are both carnuba based and likely will work well hand in hand. The wax will fill and smooth and make that mold pop right off!!!
Your on the right track! Stick with your game plan keep it simple! The number on goal is to get that puppy as slick as possible. Oh… Cover your work with a bag so crap in the air doesn’t f it up!!!
too late with the rubbing compound…oh well…it looks better already.polishing compound tomorrow… thank you so much for walking me thru this…im getting excited…i better draw up my vacuum design so i can get some help with it also. i’ll post up a link to it so you can take a look @ my plan.
i drew up a design for my project. i am trying to gather up the fittings and misc stuff. how does my design look?
what im not sure of is what size tubing to use…that will determine what fittings im gonna need.
i forgot to include a pressure release. it will most like be a ball valve on the crock pot/resin trap/degasser chamber.
heres my design.
my pump works…YAHOOOOO!
Your on the right track for your vac setup. You will want to add a small reservoir for your vac switch to take readings from. This small tank will be a damper so when you get close to max vac, your pump doesn’t flicker on and off. Here is Joewoodwoker.com’s EVS pump setup and parts list. The only thing to watch out for is their vac switch. It has a LARGE dead band like 3" or so. Try and get one with 1" or less. The dead band on these switchs tells you how long before the pump will kick back on. So if you can pull 29" with your vac you will want one that can turn the pump off at 29" and back on after loosing .5-1".
“Concept” http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/EVS/concept.htm
Parts http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/EVS/parts.htm
thanks Rotorage. so my resin trap wont act as the reservoir/damper?
scratch that last post i didnt read it all the way thru…
that is really cool design…thanks for the links…he even sells a kit with most of the parts. i can build that…but i’ll fab up a little cart with wheels…screw carrying that thing around. i’ll rol mine. LOL
Yep… I suggest building a vac Canister that has some decent volume as well. Separate of the degassing chamber. This will help with faster debulking and leak checking…have a ball valve installed also that connects online or before the degassing chamber. That’s a honkin pump!!! I hope u have plans to make more than just two hats with that setup… Your gonna be fully equipped just yet!
i know, the pump is crazy…its so quiet…i dig that vacuum design from those links. thats exactly what i need…DIRECTIONS…LOL.
hey dallas, i used the polishing compound and polished them up. then i started putting my coats of release wax on…but its a PIA! do i put it on like im waxing a car? put a coat of wax-let it dry- then buff off the wax? if so, this wax sucks. because if i let it dry…OMG it is incredibly hard to rub off. OR do i just pile layer after layer with no rubbing in between? i did the karate kid wax on wax off today. and after two coats i quit…it didnt seam like i was adding anything to it. i probly rubbed it off if anythinh LOL.
rotorage, i think i found a vac switch. http://www.air-logic.com/oldsite/Switches/pg3v.html
the V-4100-0.7 it says it has a fixed setting of 0.7"hg…im assuming this is the dead band. its only 15 bucks…is this a good one?
Ok… Same principle as polishing combat boots… To a spit shine. Focus on the hats only. Rub it on. Let harden and… Use very soft cloth and tiny circles with pointer finger about the size of a quarter in a 3"by3" area. Lightly rub off the wax and dab of water as a lubricant. Seriously your not putting any pressure just… Tiny circles. I’d say count to 60 and try to get 120 circles in to get an idea of tempo. Cotton ball or make up applicator works good.
This should take you 15 minutes on the hats. From the looks of it. By the time you get to spraying ur pva it will look wet.
Your alternative is to rub on with a rag and off with a rag. But you’ll have scratches that will transfer to the mold.
Both approaches work fine one better than the other. Also spray pva last. Wax plug let sit covered, clean with cotton ball and diluted isopropyl… Or a pva dampened cotton ball before spraying.
WOW! ok…i should should start over again. i put i on with a rag, off with a micro fiber towel. and i do have tiny scratches. i was hoping the wax layer would fill them in…
boy its not easy doing this right is it?
i suppose a guy gets faster the more he does it.
Yea…cosmetics is a detail thing. Don’t start over. Tee shirt material works good and then shine with cotton ball. Believe it or not you probably got a decent base of wax on there. Dab a small bit of wax to the tip of your finger wrapped in t shirt material (clean) and dab in water and start the circles… Light pressure over and over working the 3" area. It’ll start to shine up…
you got it. it bagged up for the night…good day thow. im glad that pump works. so far im only a few hundred bucks into this new endeavor:D:D…
Most people don’t go this far into it… Which is why parts get dumped with gel coats and threads get made about certain things going wrong. But the rule is… If your molds slick… So is your part… Generally speaking.