Now that’s a shinny mold. 
Take your time pushing the fabric and bag into the problem areas and you should be good.
We rootin for ya
thanks you guys…this time i let the resin out slower. it took about 15-20 minutes to infuse. compared to 5 minutes the last time. i will post up some pictures tonight…
another 3 hour leak locating session. ARGH!
and just as im degassing the resin, i here the fedex man pull up. on a saturday? anyways he has my leak detecter. LOL…where was he about lunch time. sure would have saved me alot of trouble.
Don’t you know what a tracking number is? 
j/k I know they don’t always give them.
hardy har har. a comedian and a toy helicopter designer(baaahaaahaaa) J/K. believe me i looked.
isnt ther a way to figure out my resin to fabric percentage?
come back rotoman! i was just joking see: hahaha:D:D:D. i take back the crack about the toy helicopters…they are man toys. i would never let my kids fly a 1500 doller heli. shoot they would probly crash it into the neighbors house and burn it down…
im sure you guys are getting sick of seeing these pictures but this is todays work…
after all my sanding and buffing i scratched the hell out of the mold with my scissors.:mad2::mad2::mad2:
Mmmmm don’t be afraid to dart the fabric. In my opinion I’d rather se a dart than a wrinkle. It looks good Doug I just think more practice is needed. I think the fabric is in the bowls 100% better this go around but the fabric looked better the first go around. I’m hoping the debulk consolidates the wrinkles.
Don’t work about the scratches. No biggie. I hope the first layer has a nice nest in there.
what does dart mean dallas.
the first layer went in great. its the additional layers that gave me the problems as you can tell…im not sure what the difference was. maybe going from twill (first round) to the plain weave (this round). i guess thats where experiance comes in. knowing what weave AND what thickness to use.
my fear is that the little clippings got down between the mold and my first layer.
it got kinda messy with all the little clippings.
and then the wrinkles. i didnt really know what to do with them.
this layup wasnt near as smooth as the first. and i really tried to take my time with this one too…
but im not going to let it bum me out. we will see what they look like when i demold them tomorrow.
Maybe a pattern for the plain weave will help out. That way you can cut it out side of the mold. If you start to struggle or loose control. Stop. That’s when problems arrive. The point you get frustrated is when you start making a bad parts. Just analyze the situation and don’t be afraid to adjust. Your transitioning from a mechanic to a seamstress…seamstressman. That’s better. The layup should be smooth and calculated. Tomorrow. Get some craft paper and work out a flat pattern layout. Imagine a sheetmetal layout that allows for relief darts and overlap incorporated.
That might help.
Dart is a relief cut. A cut can be overlaped with a small bit of material to compensate. Or on cosmetics not a big deal.
Actually plain weave stretches much like cotton t shirt material. You could tailor that in the bowl nicely. Take it out press it flat and then trace on paper for a pattern.
I take that back… It stretches like burlap rucksack.
i will do that tomorrow. thank you for the tips dallas. they are a tremendous help…can i also dart the flow media also. or is it not really necessary?
did i read/hear you correctly? its ok to cut/dart the cosmetic(first layer)?
is it easier to make the cosmetic layer out of 1k fabric instead of the 3k that i am using? will it conform easier?
these carb hats are a little more technical than i had originally thought.
Here’s your dart. I just went and grabed a small scrap piece and used some spray adhesive to get it to stick to a used mixing cup, the “tabs” are folded over or in your case stuck to the flange area.
You can dart everything under the bag. Cut, fold, tape do what ever it takes to get the material in good and that includes the cosmetic layer which you can make out of 3K. Hopefully these hats come out good and you don’t need to make another set to try darting. Hopefully you have to make another set and try darting because you’ll have your Porsche buddys wanting a set. 
You can dart the cosmetic first layer but with your part I would not. Dart the backside plain weave. Yes you can dart the flow media and should. Being wise that it will rip at the dart when you clean the composite. Flow media like the mesh can cause bridges.
I’d make all the hats you can and eBay them or sell them to make up for the cost incurred so far. Even sell the blemished ones unless you want them for your self. Although I think you could fix the two you already have.
DISASTER!!!:mad2::eek:
:evil:
im pretty discouraged this morning…all of my own doing…
in order to maximize my time this weekend. i decided to do my layup in the drive way this time. so i could rebuild my lay up table while my carb hats are curing. bad idea. i woke up this morning and my carb hates were full of water. the sprinklers gotten them. in a panic i rush over to my project, thinking maybe they are ok, after 12 hours of curing. i was wrong. they werent cured. after i start tearing off all the infusion stuff it struck me. STILL WET! damn it…
not much i can do at this time but set it in the sun and let it cure…and the stinking mold is a mess. stringy resin all over it. i have no idea how i am going to clean it. hopefully it will harden and peel off.
im done for the weekend. i will be back at it next weekend. now i am going to research for some room temp curing infusing epoxy…if there is such a thing…
thanks for all your input and help fellas.