try this
i just tried laying a dry piece of twill into the mold of the part that i had a bubble problem with.the difference when you lay it at 45 degrees is immense,it forms the curve very easily compared to a 90 degree layup 
is this more important for th efirst layer than the rest?
Fiber orientation really depends on what you’re trying to accomplish. If this was a structural part, then the orientation would most likely be defined by the designer to get the strength properties you’re trying to achieve and fiber direction plays a key role.
For cosmetic parts, it’s not critical which way the fibers lay unless there’s a visual preference. However, you do run a risk of having an interanl void if the fibers can’t conform to a sharp radius in subsequent layers. The voids obviously weaken the area.
Alternating fiber orientation between layers of cloth will help to strengthen the laminate because the loads will be spread out in numerous directions instead of just 0 and 90 degrees when all the cloth is laid the same way.
Bias cut cloth is known to drape and conform to complex shapes easier than 0/90. The “angle of attack” that a fiber strand is subjected to is usually a gentler slope with a shallower and longer arc. Laying a fiber perpendicular to a radius subjects it to the steepest and most severe angle change. If it’s too sharp, then the fiber resists the bend and will spring back. Bridging can happen easily in vacuum bagging if the cloth gets shifted by the bagging material or even shifting while placing other layers.
A 1/2" radius or greater is usually a rule of thumb for the tightest curve fiberglass and other fibers will conform to without hassles in a hand layup
My .02, My thought is the bag is not pulling (pushing) the CF close enough to the mold in the big indentation, My method would be to make a silicone “plug” for that area to be applied before the bag to give some extra push in that area.
which product would be suitable for making such a block from my supplier?
http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/CFS_Catalogue__CRAFT_MAKING_22.html
so if I infuse the part will I have the same problems with the carbon possibly bridgeing?
I am using 1 layer of carbon and 2 layers of 2oz fiberglass mat since it is a cosmetic piece
also my mold is 43 inches long, will i run into trouble with the carbon not being long enough at the 45 degree angle?
stew i havent looked at the online catolog but have got the one they sent me.
they have RTV silicone 1025
or
RTV silicone 1015 - this is a softer grade one.
not sure which youd want but the 2nd one is softer
(ggrop you have pm!!)
will infusing this part solve these problems or will I still have the fabric bridged?
I infused one and it is curing now, I will post pics of it in the morning. Are Robinair Pumps affected by elevation cause I am about 5,500ft and the best I can get the pump to pump is 26hg and it infused the part fine
please please please let us know how it turns out!! i have done 3 parts now and have the exact same problems,im thinking of changing to infusion,if yours works then im sold…
so your parts are bridging too? My supplier drove 2 and a half hours to show me how to do it and we found my bag was too small that is why it was bridging on me and my pump was only at 26hg and it infused the part in about a 2 minutes
i am putting my parts loose in a bag rather than taping it to the flange,im pretty much out of ideas now other than infusion,i am very interested in seeing how yours works and yes they are bridging badly but only with the plain fabric,with the twill theer was no bridging but the same 1,000,000,000 tiny bubbles on the curves.
well it turned out better, I found out my bag was still bridging and not my material. I do not have bags that are long enough in width and got some today. It was a little dry but the resin we used was left in a car over night in below freezing weather and it took 2 hours to gel so I think I sucked too much resin out before it gelled. Can you suck too much resin out??
didnt think you sucked any out?? not entirely sure how it works,do you have any pics of the new part and when are you gonn try one with the bigger bag?
thanks!
would be useful if you took pictures at the same points you did in the first pics the cameera tends to show up more bubbles than the eye can see when you use the flash.
I am making another one with bigger bags. The piece used about a half a quart of resin and when it finally kicked about half of that was in the air line that I made around the top of the flanges.
why don’t you use 3m adhesive spray to lay the carbon into the mold? this way you can make sure the fabric is touching the mold and not bridging before you vacuum. Also lay your bag in dry and allow 5 or so inches extra in the mold. Use masking tape to make your folds and conform the bag to the mold.
can you use the spray adhesive on the first layer against the gelcaot?? if you can then i can imagine its actually pretty hard to mess a part up when you have the tecnique correct
I got some airtech adhesive that works a lot better then super77 but I will try that. My bags were 50" wide and my mold was 44" wide so I got some 65" bags. I have a semi local guy that is a member on here going to help me and maybe give me a job