I ordered some aquabuff 2000, anyone have experience using this stuff? Any tips and suggestions?
The guy that I talked to when ordering said that it won’t work all that well on any epoxy molds, any comments regarding this?
I also ordered some Frekot semi-perm sealer and release.
JFI, what did you pay for the Frekote cleaner and sealer? Amounts?
I think they were $20 for quart sizes.
hey, I think this is your first time using a semi, so make sure you clean your mold surface very well, and follow the directions very well. more is not better with semi’s, really only want light layers with out over working and waiting ample time between coats and before laminating. semi permanents chemically bond to your mold, if you attempt to laminate before they have fully cured then you risk having the semi act as a adhesive bonding your part to the mold. if you need any more help, feel free to ask, I have used many different semi release agents including frekote, will be happy to help
hoj; have you ever waxed over frekote? I’ve heard of people doing that.
that’s right hojo, it is my first time. Thanks for the offer.
I am also interested in converting some previously waxed molds to semiperm, but have read that the residual wax may interfeer with the semiperm properly bonding wiht the mold. any advice or insight in this regard?
I am planning on sanding the tooling surfaces back a bit then wiping with a high flash solvent and then buffing with aquabuff to get a nice surface and then seal and then coat with the semi perm release agent.
No, I have never done that or heard of it. I really dont think its necessary, but if your thinking of doing it definetaly do a test panel first.
best thing to do is first wash the mold a couple times with soapy water, then use a powerful solvent to remove anything remaining. freekote makes a good cleaner, you can also use any wax and grease removers, or acetone too. any buffing compound will cause problems with your frekote, so clean very well after buffing. seal your molds four times, waiting the proper time between coats, you might want to give your mold some heat too before adding the release agent just to be sure that it cures. all these products are aircuring, so if your layers are not fully curing before adding the next coat it could cause serious problems with the frekote not fully curing.
I have used semi perm on all my molds, even olders ones that have been release with wax and never had any problems.
What I recommend is like what was already stated from Hojo (ps hojo, I have used 3+ year old semi perm releases and never had a problem with them, so if you want to sell yours off on here…AOK, before I start to list some…) but I also have been told you need to cook in the cheicials the first time or so with a hot batch on the first couple of parts.
I would prep with the semi perm cleaner, prep coating, release coating and then for the first part or two: wax and PVA before a hot coating of gel coat and lamitation lay up. That is if it is a “green” mold.
I still got the unopen 5 gallon pail of frekote 770nc if your interested in it werksberg. the biggest problem is shipping it legitly
what sort of solvents would be recommended , I have rubbing alcohol, would something else be better?
the best would be frekote cleaner, you can probally get for about $20 a gallon. you can buy wax/grease removers used for painting from napa and places like that. or even acetone will work well. I dont think rubbing alcohol will be strong enough
Anyone know what aqua buff 2000 has in it? What the abrasive compund in it is? there was no msds sheet with the shipment I got. I looked at the website for aqua buff but nothing there either, I did email them but I would like to know asap if I could.
Thanks.
ok so I found a diff site that had a msds, and it’s alumina thats in there as the abrasive agent. aka aluminu oxide, what I was concerned about was that if it is hazardous as a dust, like silica is hazardous as a dust. I know that silica as a dust if inhaled is very much like asbestos, and can cause something called silicosis. Form what I have read so far alumina is not a concern but why bother exposing yourself… I will have to think of a way to buff this stuff so that it doesn’t make dust everywhere.
any fine particulate can be of concern. Your lungs have very few methods of ridding of contaminates, so many times, what particles go in have a hard time getting out or going through your system to get filtered.
Of course, this all also depends on particle size and it’s solubility in blood.
I work as a chemist/chemical engineer with TiO2 all day long – titanium rust a pigment that replaced lead-based pigments.
I wouldn’t worry in the slightest about not wearing respitory protection with this aquabuff 2000 … seriously.
I work grinding and polishing aluminum every day for the past 10 years and i have no ill ill no ill effects from it it it:D
Nah, Truthfully, the only time i wear a mask is if i’m grinding aluminum parts or sanding them with an electrical or air sanding machine. I have been doing it for many years.
If you are still concerned here is the .pdf MSDS for AquaBuff 2000
and how old are you?
It adds up, I promise. Asbestos used to be perfectly safe, so did sand dust (silica, SiO2), lead-based pigments, mercury, etc. etc.
IF there are fine particulates, you better bet i’m wearing a mask!
Its the best mold polish period. That guy is full of it.
My best results came with an 8" variable speed polisher. No more than 3000rpm. Constantly spur the wool. Keep the mold misted during polishing.
I have noticed polishing epoxy molds is more difficult than PER tooling molds. I currently use 3M rubbing compound, followed up by Meguiar’s Crystal Auto Polish. I can never get a full shine to my molds where sanding with paper has been done.
I sand in this manner.
150 grit bad areas,
220 grit follow up real well,
320 wet sand,
400 wet sand,
800 wet sand,
1500 wet sand.
Any suggestions for a more glass-like shine on the mold?