Ok for your next project here you are http://www.teamprototype.com/tp_cftype_images/cars/celica_01/celica_01_big.jpg
Baz
i could do that in my lunch break 
I don’t think it would TASTE very well!
CFTYPE?
Come on!!!
SUPER TOP SECRET process for wrapping carbon?
COME ON!!!
What could they be doing besides vac bagging the overlays and doing it in mexico so they can pay the guys 2 dollars an hour and make more money in the US?
They should be ashamed…
I hate when I see shit like that. If it was something new, fine call it propriatery. Overlays arent really technologicaly new.
That’s why you are into composites!! LOL 
Proper angle and lighting is key!
haha i love it when you go off on tangents!
ive tried sanding it wet with 2000 grit and t-cutting it and then polish but it looks prety crap,ok from a couple of feet away but up close its just covered in thousands of scratches from the sand paper,im presuming this is because ive only left it 3 days? im hoping i wont have this problem if i leave it a week or so??
more than likely your buffing compound isnt abrasive enough to take out your 2000 grit scratches.
You cant buff by hand either.
buffing is a combined action of abrasives and heat generated to move the paint.
Try buffing it with a buffer and some slightly more coarse compound
so get an electric buffer and use G10 or G3? like this kit? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TRADE-POLISHER-SANDER-6-speed-FREE-KIT_W0QQitemZ330035373535
The problem is your using acrylic or cellulose which must be left at least a week and better two before you even think about buffing it. All you will do is burn the paint and move it around the surface if you machine buff to early.If you try buffing Duratec with G10 or similar you`ll be there all year and achieve nothing for this or epoxy and 2k you need G3 or similar first but with most of these cutting compounds you must also use water which combined with the heat generated whilst compounding breaks the compound down and gives the desired finish.
Did you sand with 2000 straight off or move up through the grades? If you went up through the grades you must change the water for every grade, also 2000 grit is very fine and you may have picked up some contamination which left small scratches which are now highlighted. Did you sand in straight lines and buff in circles. Check out some detailing sites for some ideas.
There are some good cheap electric buffing kits on ebay.
Just remember the paint is too soft at the moment so you will not get the desired finish and will end up having to clear it again.
Baz
its already got to that stage lol i used 2000 grit only,tcut didnt do owt so then i used some simoniz rubbing compound i had,used it wet and its gone through to carbon lmao! so will need to clearcoat again and leave it for 2 weeks lol.
ive spent a few hours reading all about farecla and think i understand what i need to do now,i just hope it does what it says on the tin…
as far as i can work out i need to use the blue mop and use it wet with g3 but not sure if it needs to be wet with g10??
im gonna buy the polisher i linked above and some g3+g10 and if that doesnt work then i quit.
ah dont quit just get a good gun with a 1.4mm tip and spray some automotive clear.
That rattle can stuff sucks and isnt worth that money you spent on it.
ive never used one before,why does it make such a big difference?
right,ive bought an electric polisher,some g3 and some blue mop sponges,used them wet and its come up pretty well considering its not technically dry yet,ive now trimmed it and a final polish and it looks good,the only problem i have is some minor fisheyes in the lacquer,i used panel wipe on it but im guessing i didnt do a good enough job in getting all the wax off?
Rattle can spray paint never truely “dries” as the catalyst in it only works when its exposed to oxygen. So the top layer will dry and leave the other layers underneath it with some softness to it.
Auto clear uses catalyst and hardens like resin does, with a chemical reaction.
It will harden enough to be able to work it into perfection.
Oh and fish eyes can be from the oils on your hands.
Always wear gloves when youre dealing with paint.
Cheap non powdered gloves are the best bet.
thats a very good point and could very well be the problem cheers.
For people with no spray equipment… Google spraymax. They make a few different types of clears, primers, paint to match your color code. The best part is its 2k paint. It also has a special nozzle that sprays a lot like a gun.
You take a piece off the cap and insert it in a hole in the bottom then press it down on the workbench.this breaks open the catalyst container and you shake like 5 minutes. Its like $20 per can and lasts about two days after catalyzed.
Several vendors sell it. Its great for small jobs or if no compressor or insufficiently dry air for spraying.
^ Or try harbor freight. You can get a 3 gal air compressor and spray gun for less than $200. Add in a hose, fittings, and an in-line filter. Your in less than $275.