well in my experience with paint work, if I scuff a part with 400 only and then apply color and clear over that color I can still see the 400 grit sanding marks.
With 600 Ive not seen them even on black paint.
Just dont want to be screwed if I go too coarse…but I hear you perf, you know I respect you even if we do somethings a bit different.
I will tell you this, so far, I cannot make anything so glossy as virgin clear.
I wish I had a nice paint booth. The dust in my clear kills me. Even after 2000 grit and a coarse buffing compound, 3m finnesse it and some show glaze…its just not as sexy as the virgin clear coat.
solvents are not the best for removing wax, they tend to thin it out and spread it everywhere. If you wash it first with a mixture of houshold ammonia and water then rinse well it cuts the wax.
What could they be doing besides vac bagging the overlays and doing it in mexico so they can pay the guys 2 dollars an hour and make more money in the US?
They should be ashamed…
I hate when I see shit like that. If it was something new, fine call it propriatery. Overlays arent really technologicaly new.
ive tried sanding it wet with 2000 grit and t-cutting it and then polish but it looks prety crap,ok from a couple of feet away but up close its just covered in thousands of scratches from the sand paper,im presuming this is because ive only left it 3 days? im hoping i wont have this problem if i leave it a week or so??
The problem is your using acrylic or cellulose which must be left at least a week and better two before you even think about buffing it. All you will do is burn the paint and move it around the surface if you machine buff to early.If you try buffing Duratec with G10 or similar you`ll be there all year and achieve nothing for this or epoxy and 2k you need G3 or similar first but with most of these cutting compounds you must also use water which combined with the heat generated whilst compounding breaks the compound down and gives the desired finish.
Did you sand with 2000 straight off or move up through the grades? If you went up through the grades you must change the water for every grade, also 2000 grit is very fine and you may have picked up some contamination which left small scratches which are now highlighted. Did you sand in straight lines and buff in circles. Check out some detailing sites for some ideas.
There are some good cheap electric buffing kits on ebay.
Just remember the paint is too soft at the moment so you will not get the desired finish and will end up having to clear it again.
its already got to that stage lol i used 2000 grit only,tcut didnt do owt so then i used some simoniz rubbing compound i had,used it wet and its gone through to carbon lmao! so will need to clearcoat again and leave it for 2 weeks lol.
ive spent a few hours reading all about farecla and think i understand what i need to do now,i just hope it does what it says on the tin…
as far as i can work out i need to use the blue mop and use it wet with g3 but not sure if it needs to be wet with g10??
im gonna buy the polisher i linked above and some g3+g10 and if that doesnt work then i quit.
right,ive bought an electric polisher,some g3 and some blue mop sponges,used them wet and its come up pretty well considering its not technically dry yet,ive now trimmed it and a final polish and it looks good,the only problem i have is some minor fisheyes in the lacquer,i used panel wipe on it but im guessing i didnt do a good enough job in getting all the wax off?
Rattle can spray paint never truely “dries” as the catalyst in it only works when its exposed to oxygen. So the top layer will dry and leave the other layers underneath it with some softness to it.
Auto clear uses catalyst and hardens like resin does, with a chemical reaction.
It will harden enough to be able to work it into perfection.
