spraying pva?

General Composites Discussions Composites Talk
#1

okay, this is gonna be wierd. i’m from greece, and the “old-school” mould builders here dont speak with english terms about materials… some have even invented their own names :rolleyes: anyway, i use a mold release that is a totally clear liquid, smells a bit like alcohol and dissolves with water. i brush that on very lightly. once i tried to spray it on, and it was a disaster.it came all bubbly and there were tiny strands of (gelatine?) floating in the air. anyway after my last visit to the shop i asked if they had something i could spray on. he gave me the same stuff :mad: i sprayed it at 3 bar. disaster again.

does anyone know how this thing is called and whats the diffrence with pva (which i know can be sprayed on)

#2

you should thin it out if you want to spray it, I believe you can use denatured alchol or water, i forget now

#3

ahmmmm i will try it! thanks.

#4

Why not just use wax? Works very well if applied properly.

#5

I use about 15% water to thin down my PVA. I like pva works well. And i can never get a perfect coats of wax that the part doesn’t need wedging out of the mold after. PVA, the part almost falls out of the mold.

#6

I totally agree, or use a semi… pva really should be used if you absolutly must, in a situation where you mold is very old and porus or off a material that does not release weel. but on a gelcoated mold you really should never need to use pva

#7

i disagree with that…i think you guys just dont have the skills required to use pva yet, just takes practice and yes…just like spraying gelcoat, spraying pva is an art form, there are tricks to using pva…i would recommend 5-10 coats of wax, 15-20 on a new mold, then follow up with 20 light coats of pva, then the pva will peel right off the part never having to wash it off with water…

#8

it has nothing to do with skill, but the fact is that there is no benifit to using pva unless in a situation where you think you may stick a part. what are you gaining by using pva?

#9

my parts literally fall out of the mold…do yours?

#10

yes, and I do not need to use pva. I use semi’s , and can get multi pulls without re-applying and without taking a extra unneccesay time consuming step of pva-ing my molds

#11

to each their own…there is no wrong way obviously…im making money…i would only hope you are too…ill stick with pva…takes me 15 min to pva a mold, just use a heat gun and be gentle…btw you can go talk your trash on another form…you aint the composite god and you dont know everything there is to know…else you prolly wouldnt be on this forum talking…

#12

C’mon fellas. No need for that.

Us newbies appreciate everyones knowledge, skills and abilities and especially those with experience sharing it with us. Some of us don’t have any other way to learn (cause we live in the boonies).

It’s been my experience in many different areas that there’s more than one way to skin a cat and differing views more often than not provide opportunities. Since reading all your posts I’ll try spraying and brushing PVA and I’ll also, when the opportunity presents itself, some of the other semi-permanent release agents like those mentioned. If it wasn’t for these forums and you guys I’d never even know that they existed.

So thanks fella’s lets try to keep it civil. I, for one, appreciate your contributions.

Thnx.

Rick

#13

hey you know nothing about me or any of my work, but i do know something about you and classic bike’s work…and that you like to use PER in your parts…big big no no if you want “QUALITY” parts…seriously do aircrafts use PER? how about porche when the decided to make the frame of the car out of carbon fiber?? wonder why they all use epoxy? anyone on here want to take a few guesses??? you can pick up epoxy for around the same price as PER and get MUCH better results in the long run…so who are you guys fooling by saying you save money buying PER vs EPOXY???

#14

i agree i try to keep things civil but i do get sick of coming on here day after day seeing the same few people on here trying to run the show telling people how to do things when clearly they are wrong…just gets very frustrating when people think they know everything and they really dont…

#15

in your opininion we are wrong, but that shows you that you have plenty to learn… I have no problem with you guys using pva or doing anything your way, I simply supply my opinion… just remember your the one who claims classic and I have no skills… I have kept it civil for the year plus I have been on this site until today for very clear reasons… and how do you feel we are clearly wrong?

#16

hey buddy i would be very careful what you say/wish for… and i think i found the answer to why you are such a tool…TOO MANY PER FUMES…wear a mask you tard…dont know the difference between your and you’re, your sentences are broken english…PER is some nasty stuff man…you arent supposed to breath that crap in you know

#17

sorry man, I didnt know this was a spelling forum… I guess I am not skilled in the art of spelling… You must be very young, your imaturity shines…

#18

old enough to know i can have fun speaking the truth about you on here and yet i still pull in around $65 a month doing only composite work…

#19

and tell me, whats the truth about me?

#20

you talk with broken english, you think you are better than everyone else and know only the best way to make composites, when in fact you dont know the best way…and i sure as hell dont know the best way either…im still learning but i can say this…wax and no pva can work…will parts stick? not all the time but there is a good chance you can ruin your mold/part by not waxing and using pva…everyone is concerned with pva runs or the typical “orange peel” if you mist spray it on for the first 10 coats and do normal coats after that…its as smooth as glass, do i need to take pictures?