Hey guys, after paiting a part and waiting 1 week just sitting around… when i was sanding and found a corner of the part chipping i desided to chip it some more off. and all of a sudden i had a huge whole where i peeled off a crap load of clear coat. not the gel coat but the paint =. why did this happen? or is this going to happen to any part? i sanded till 400 grit before painting.
well i looked at my order again, and i noticed it was
URETHANE clear coat. and NOT 2k Polyurethane clear which i thought i had boutht. is this why its not sticking well and not adhearing with the gel coat ?? will i also have a problem if this part is near hear… will the clear coat Bubble off??? advice is def. needed asap as i need to now purchase the correct paint quickly. thanks!
What exactly did you buy and where did you buy it? Paint is designed to adhere to whatever you are painting regardless of whether or not it uses a hardener/activator. Your peeling problems are more a sign of bad surface prep or improper application. The hardender/activator makes for a harder more durable finish. Can you go into detail with your surface prep? Sand to 400, then what? Make sure you wash with soap and water and use a quality degreaser.
crap. i went from 300 ->400 grit wet
then i used JUST water =( and didnt use a degreaser… (first time actually painting)
is there a way i can take off the paint? =| i wanna start over. doh!
i used HOK UC35-QT , KOSMIC KOLOR URETHANE KLEAR
it has a nice finish.
That clear is absolutely fine. HOK is not cheap. You may want to try some other clears. Dupont and PPG both have quality lower end clears that will work well until you are more skilled. Ask the rep at the paint house that you bought the HOK from. Follow the directions. Do not apply the clear too thick or you may run into problems. I have always used urethane clear coats. They are the same type of clear coat used on cars. I’m not going to get into the safety of using urethane clear coats. Just make sure you cover up as much as possible and wear a respirator.
As for taking the clear off, there is no easy way to do it. After curing for a week, the clear should be pretty tough. Your best bet is the sand the edges of the peeling area down to level out the surface. Then rescuff the entire part and reclear it.
did that, clearing tonight. also, when u say scuff… i posted it before, but whats a good scuff? dry wet, 400 grit or 300 grit?
is the 2k polyuth. better thou?
I use Dupont Kromoclear (sp?). It’s been a very good product for me.
x2 on the respirator!!! I sprayed it one time without and my chest hurt for a week!!! DEFINITELY wear your respirator!!!
Dupont Chromaclear 7600s and 7776s used to be my main clears. They were great; however, I recently switched to a high solids PPG Omni MC161 and I haven’t looked back. Not only is the Omni cheaper, but it is more clear and builds better thickness. The only drawback is the 12-16 hour time to polish; whereas the Dupont was only 2 hours.
As for safety, technically resiprators aren’t good enough. Isocyanates will pass though skin and worn (old) respirator cartridges.
400 will be fine. I have no experience with polyurethane enamel clears. The type of clear you are currently using is fine. Although, IMO, you should find a more inexpensive brand. The Dupont I used to use cost about $55 for 1.25 sprayable quarts (1qt clear, 1 pint activator). The PPG I use now costs about $45 for 1.5 sprayable quarts (1qt clear, 2 pints activator).
Paint work is an entirely different ballgame. You will have a lot to learn =).
grrr… i knew you’d say that last line =\
If you just sand a part and do not carefully degrease using panel wipe product intended for use before painting, then this is almost certainly the cause of your problems.
Parts need to be grease and dust free, and you must not touch them after you have degreased.
+1 on the PPG clear works great I use the 2021.
this place is close by, do u guys recommend anything here?
thanks!
i guess ill have to order it from a paint place =. one stupid guy on the phone said i could use brake cleaner. yeah right! it will kill everything. or , what do u guys think?
my god dont use brake cleaner!!!
its a brake cleaner and not a paint prep product.
Just use what I use…DENATURED ALCOHOL.
It will desolve the wax from pulling it out of the mold and not eat the resin (unless you bath in it of course)
I use the HOK clear as well and its a great clear…you just have to have it prepped right. Paint is only as good as what it sits on.
lol i know i was just testing you guys. and i was going to try the alc. first thing tonight
i have to be doing something freaking wrong. there are dimples on the part right after clear coating =(. i think its dust, but how the HELL am i going to get a dust free part!? HELP!