I am trying to build a prototype of some small parts, and will be using it as my plug. I want to use clay instead of foam because it’s easier for me to work with without sanding. Anyone know any clay that’s easy to work with and will harden?
I just use basic modeling clay availible from any hobbie store it air dries no need for heating or anything.
most people who use clay to make plugs use clay that does not harden
how do they keep the shape when making the mold?
The clay that never hardens is quite dense as it is…so spraying on a gel-coat would be fine…
Make sure that the heat of initial lamination is kept to a minimum or it will distort the clay plug.
would regular playdough work? or are there any kind of special clay I should use?
I saw some video of car prototype, they use some kind of brownish clay, what kind of clay are they using? where can you get those?
I use Chavant styling clay. Part number CM50, I think. It is what car stylists use. It is very hard,but can be heated in a small toaster oven to 150 deg F max to apply it to your armature. When cool it can be worked with regular clay tools,rakes and steels. It can be painted with Duratec primer then wet sanded and polished with care. When mould making, use polyester or epoxy ,with care, not to get too hot (very little mekp or a slow hardener. Another advantage is, the clay can be re-used.
I get mine from White Pine Lumber in Illinois (a pattern making supplier)
Applying clay to 25% model roadster
Painted model. Note that bondo can be used if desired over the paint.
does Chavant styling clay get harden? if it doesn’t get harden then how do you painted with primer? I’ve never work with these kind of clay before. I went to their site I think that’s what I am looking for. Thank you jjprototype
You simply don’t want a hardening clay.
Firstly, hardening implies either solvent/water evaporation, or a chemical change, both of which can result in undesirable changes to the plug - cracking, deformation, shrinkage.
Secondly, it means you have a finite amount of time to work with the plug prior to primer/gelcoat, rather than being able to work on it whenever.
I picked up a large brick of this clay at a craft store, and use it to fill in small seams between plugs and flanges, or gaps in general…it’s great stuff! The only concern is that if heated, it will run/sag…but that’s very easy to manage.
you know regular old pottery clay is perfectly fine. Use water keep it kneeded and moist to shape…let dry. Make mold and then crack it out of the mold.
Not expensive, easily had and super easy to get out of the mold if you dont kiln fire it.
I think the site describes how to paint the clay with Duratec paint. It does not fully harden like real clay does, but you can use tools to scrape the surface and sculpt your shape. You don’t want a shiny surface prior to painting,though.
I think the question unanswered for him is " does the clay harden"?
Basically the modlers clay “FIRMS UP” with air and set-up time. There are oils in the clay that when KNEADED,the friction of kneading , softens it enough to manipulate. When left alone for minutes or days…the oils stabalize and the clay becomes “FIRM”, but not brick hard. Its skin is soft enough to carve on or shape.
Once its “FIRMED UP” fully…it can be coated which will give it an even tougher skin to continue to perfect as needed.
It can be damaged by force ,however.Use caution with pressures.
Like any tool…it has its place.
Best of luck,Vinny
Thanks, that make sense to me now.