Just a infusion video I found on the tube. Wondered why they used perf release in an infusion. I’ve never used that in one and wondered why they did. Also thought it was suprising they got that good of surface finish with painted on pva. :weird:
http://www.youtube.com/user/MTIinfo#p/a/u/0/8C0DkROWsiE
And for those on the other side of the pond.
http://www.youtube.com/user/MTIinfo#p/a/u/1/6wTrGUnpWig
Nice vid-Ive never seen perf release used in infusion either. Pretty good going getting that peel ply down so nicely!
Nice work and nice result!
BTW i note that he use a lot of adhesive spray. Is this spray a bit dangerous in terms of strength and finish of the final part? And does it restrict the flow of resin between the mould surface and the first layer?
1: yes, you can use perf release, just make sure it’s the right perforations. Odd that he put it on TOP of the peel ply. I guess their distro mesh is a pain to peel off the part with the peelply?
2: yes, alot of spray is bad. I used an infusion spray, that sprayed out a mess (not mist), and my part was craaaaap. (4 layers, 8oz Eglass)…I would see where the blobs of spray were. I normally use 77, and VERY VERY VERY light coats where I need it.
What size and spacing perforation works for infusion? And then I’m sure hard to release disto mesh isn’t the only reason to use it. Right? 
Besides not leaving a peelply surface, I don’t know. It’s still not a smooth surface, howbeit shiny. Leaves little bits of resin where the holes are, and when you try to wipe down the part, it EATS any paper tower. In the end, I’ve had one HELL of a time peeling peelply/distro off. I should use it in areas I know I’ll have troubles.
I don’t know what the perf is, I will try to get back to you on that.
Best at this moment is MP22 perforation style by Airtech. Otherwise P or P1 will do.
More later, now the kids go to bed. I have laughed my ass of in certain parts.
OK, back again.
-perforated film in infusion is a normal way to get a better release between the resin-filled infusion mesh and the laminate. Peelply is not very suitable for that. Way too much adhesion. Peelply is only useful to get a nice textured surface, on which secondary bonding can take place.
In many circumstances the peelply is left in the part as long as possible.
-the peelply is not of a striped version. Although striped versions are (a little) more expensive, how to tell if there is peelply present? Ask the Bavaria boatyard what happens if someone forgets to remove the (non striped, so non visible) peelply. (2 people got killed when Bavaria sailing boats started losing their keels, due to peelply being present between bottom and reinforcement grid)
-spray adhesive. I love it, I hate it. I have a report from Nautical Grip about influence of their glue on ILSS. (which is near to none) but still I like to use the least amount possible. Parts are made with fiber and resin, not fiber and glue.
-Whenever possible, try and avoid holes in the middle of bags. Bring the feed tube in from the side, and bring it to the desired spot through a pleat.
-What kind of release does he use? It takes quite some persuasion before the part left the mould.
-Best of all: THIS GUY IS POKING THE MOULD WITH A SCREWDRIVER !!!
I thought he used wax and brushed on PVA that’s why I was suprised he had a good surface finish when it was done. That’s also why I use Semi-perm release because the part will almost fall out.
You mean a screwdriver isn’t a standard release tool? 
I thought you guys would like when he picked up his phone during the video.
Has anyone ever seen this Compoflex peel-ply? Looks like it releases alot easier then normal material. [ame=“http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFvHNfnuDcM”]Compoflex vs. Peel ply - infusion test - YouTube[/ame]
I use a coated textured peel ply. It is so easy to remove. I was using the white nylon stuff. What a pain that stuff was to remove.
After reading your post I remember trying out 5yards of a green peelply when I first started infusing. That stuff was WAY easier to remove then the white stuff your talking about. I’ve been using the white stuff since because I bought so much for so cheap and kinda forgot all about the green stuff.
I use the green release coated stuff. Don’t know the specs or whatnot. I just ask for release coated peel ply when I order. Thats all they need to know…
Its way easier than regular peel ply or that nylon stuff from hanxxxx fabrics, (same stuff really). Before I only used the cheap stuff and I’ve actually broken some parts trying to rip it off. Other then that, that stuff has given me gray hairs… LITERALLY!
The extra few bucks is totally worth it because you also get a much smoother finish. REgular peel ply pulls resin from the part as well so you get this dirty choppy look. Release coated peel ply just gives you a real smooth textured nice matte finish.
Be careful with secondary bonding though…
At least you now know why many people add perforated film. Imagine trying to yank the white peelply off, with a layer of infusion mesh on top…
As for the Fibertex material: Yes, it is MUCH easier to pull. Actually we just have been granted distributorship of this material. As a comparison:
For a 50 meter windmill blade it took 5 people just over 2 hours to remove the infusion mesh and peelply. With Fibertex materials it takes 2 people just over 1 hour…
They now have several styles of their material, with peelply or smooth surface (and I mean really smooth, not like perf film), and bonded to infusion mesh or breather. Neat stuff…
John - I too have fudged some thin parts because of the white peel ply. 
I just wish the peelply/flow media would release as good as the semi perm does.
Herman - You talked about the striped peel ply earlier. What’s the difference between that and the all white? I see lots of youtube vids with the striped fabric and not very many with all white.
… and the green stuff is re-useable if you are in a bind. I’ve actually used the same piece in a small mold over 10 times now. LOL.
What kind of spray glue can be misted on the mold surface? I tried Super 77 and you could still see the little glue particles in the finished product.
There ARE purpose made infusion tack sprays. Don’t know who…it’s in a blue can 
Don’t know if that helps, but is made to dissolve into the resin more than Super77.
I thought Airtech had something called Airtack? I never use sprays so I dunno.
Airtac2, Northstar Chemicals NG-IF, Ce-Sense Resin Infusion Spray Glue, Aerofix3
Do not use 3M 77 or Super 77. Seen to many problems.
On striped peelply: at least you know the stuff is made for composites. Just bought 50.000 m2 of it…
Diatex makes Infutac specically for holding fibers during infusion. Never tried it so I don’t know how well it works.
Cheers