To Hanaldo:
Thanks! I will try it another time with Enviroshield and this technic and report back. I am also trying to source Frekote as well.
Q: Do you believe thinning is required? What are you using to thin? MEK solvent, Acetone, Lacquer Thinner? (I have a gravity conventional 2.0mm tip, seems to atomize well without thinning)
To Fasta:
Q: Are you using TR108 OR Frekote? Or you are using both such as TR108 on top of Frekote? Can I kindly ask your application technic?
Tks!
I use the full frekote system of cleaner, sealer and 700NC release.
Then 5 coats of TR108 wax.
I also add a fresh new wax every time I mould a part but this is not always necessary now that the mould is working so well.
I always thin with 8-10% MEK
Yes, it works better thinned with pure MEK or Duratec thinners (which is mostly MEK with a bit of toluene). Flows and levels much much better when thinned, though that isn’t so important for IMC’s. The main benefit is it speeds up flash off time.
Many thanks guys!
It seems to be working now finally! I have combined your recommendations:
There is still light and rare fish eyes at step 4, so I might test also thinning the initial 2 light dust coats to see if I can have finer and better regularity in coverage for those dust coats…
The only other issue is that this process takes me around 1h to do… Once I get it perfectly I will try to gradually speed up things… How much time does it take you??
Again many thanks!!!
From what i experienced so far, you can use a specific in mould coating or a automotive 2k clear coat. Problem with automotive 2k clear is it will chip easier iy you are making a part subject to being hit (any part that is in front of a car)
The secrets to avoid fish eyes is wax! I use a permanent release agent then i apply 1 coat of wax each time i use the mould. 1 mist coat and then two wet and eveything is perfect.
I use a waterbased semiperm release agent that does not fisheye.
I’m guessing you mean an hour collectively? Or do you do all these steps within an hour?
I’ve been tinkering with sunshiel myself. I use Chemlease PMR 90 EZ which I think is their high slip option. I’m going to look into if htey have a lower slip option. I find that a few coats of a non silicone based wax (partall #2) helps with the fish eyes on IMC’s but doesn’t cure it so still have to do several dust coats, then some medium coats, then finally a wet coat or two. Very time consuming I feel, but probably less overall than post pull clearing. My big gripe about it all is you have to mix up very small amounts to do the dust coats and clean the gun between each coat so it doesn’t set up in the gun.
I’m going to try what someone mentioned about closing down the tip so literally a fog comes out of the gun. What I’ve been doing as a mist coat has been more of a normal flow, but move the gun much quicker.
which one exactly?
I use the HP HGR5 release from HP Textiles.
I gotta see if I can get this in the states. Since its silicone free, makes sense you are not seeing any fish eyes. That would be amazing if I can get my hands on some. Thank you.
Fish-eyes aren’t just caused by silicone. Frekote is also silicone free, but it will make IMC’s fish-eye like crazy if you don’t apply it suitably. It’s all to do with slip levels.
If you can’t get the release agent that DD suggested, see if you can get the Zyvax Flex-Z range. The Z1 won’t Fish-eye at all, even if you are a bit heavy handed with the first few coats.
If I understand you guys, if I use Freekote release agent and put a coat of wax on top I wont have problems with my clear gel coat fish-eyeing?
Thanks…this is an expensive learning curve
Can be shipped very easy because it is not a dangerous item.
No, not quite as easy as that. Wax does make it easier, but it doesn’t completely prevent it. You still need to use the technique I described earlier to get good results.
What a high slip release agent like Frekote effectively does is lowers the surface energy of your mould to a point where molecules of liquid have a higher attraction to each other than to the mould surface, and so form the lowest surface area possible - a droplet. Wax will slightly raise the surface energy again, so that the liquid molecules can get some sort of cohesion with the surface, but - wax itself still creates adhesion. So it will never be as easy as post-spraying a panel that is prepped for paint, it is just slightly easier than the high slip release agents.
It also depends a bit on your tool surface. A highly polished mould will be more susceptible than a dull or textured mould, because the surface energy is just that bit lower again.
I think you also need more than a coat, I use at least 5 waxes on top.
Hi DDCompound,
As I said before, the process works (see my previous post) but it is just to much time consuming to have to wait all this time between each layers and also having those 2x dust coats and having to add additional intermediate dust coats if fisheye starts during wet coat…
So I decided to go ahead and order from Germany the water based semi-perm release agent you are using from HP Textiles “HP-HGR5”. Hopefully I can accelerate the process and limit the time in-between coats to the “Flash time” only (like 5-10min) and also limit the amount of dust coat…
I should receive it within the week. I will post back.
Tks again!
You can soon order a product from us in the states.
DDCompound,
I just received the HP-HGR5, will try this week.
Can I kindly ask you what is your IMC coating strategy? Do you apply a wet coat directly at the beginning? Or do you also start with one or more dust coat? What was the quickest way of applying the clear without seing fisheyes when using HGR5?
Tks!
For the fisheyes, apply a coat of wax over the release agent. Works for me
Do not mix release agents! Do not put way over the HGR5 or other release agents.