Flange questions

General Composites Discussions Composites Talk
#1

First I just wanted to say great forum! Everyone seems really knowledgeable and helpful. That being the case… :slight_smile:

I’ve seen some different ideas about making flanges and was just wondering what everyone around here does. If you have a relatively flat part, or at least a one-sided part the flanging is pretty easy as you can hot glue them on from the backside. What about when you have a part that you need to make a two part mold from? What do you use and how do you attach the flanges to the surface of the part? I’ve tried hot glue (after waxing the part) but it’s a pain to get off and usually damages the part in doing so. Oil based clay doesn’t seem to want to hold onto the waxed surface that well so I don’t really trust it to hold the flanges where I need them. On the part I’m doing now I’ve been trying to make a paper template of the flange I need and then trace that onto metal “For Sale” signs. This works ok, but sometimes the paper templates tend to fit better than the metal ones as they have a little more give if you’re not paying attention when fitting the paper ones. Plus I haven’t really figured out a good way to attach the flanges together yet if they are larger than one sign (and they always seem to be. :rolleyes:) I just pretty much leave a little overlap and glue them together with that and clay up any gap left on the front. It works ok, but I’m sure there are better ways and materials. Any suggestions? Is there an easy way to make a template? On a curved surface I just pretty much have to guess and draw it as close as I can and then start trimming until I get it close. Then I just use clay to fill in the gaps. It works ok, but takes awhile sometimes. Thanks in advance!

#2

hears crickets Anyone? I know there’s a wealth of knowledge just waiting to be shared. :slight_smile:

#3

on a curved surface, I will take 3 layers of 4oz fiberglass fabric and cut into 2 inch strips. Waz your plug and put those strips where you want the flange to be, add resin and let cure. pop that off and that should duplicate the curves of your plug. From their you can trace your flange and it will perfectly line up to the plug. hope that makes sense

#4

Sorry, been really busy doing school stuff and not MY stuff! :rolleyes:

We like to use plastic coated bathroom tile board. Cheap, like $8 per 4’ x 8’, somewhat flexible and with just wax, seperates when you want it too.

#5

I prefer using a foam core poster board or sheet wax if more complex curves are necessary. For the poster board, a little hot glue to hold it in place and clay to fill and smooth. I then take an old pencil soldering iron and smooth any clumps of hot glue. The sheet wax is 3/8" PL266 Thermo-Stable Sheet Wax from Freeman Supply (http://www.freemansupply.com/PL266ThermoStableS.htm). Now, this is more expensive then poster board but for some applications the quality is much better and it requires much less time.

#6

Sweet, thanks a lot guys! I’ll probably be putting them to use very soon. :slight_smile: Dual twill, I like your idea a lot. It’s amazing what’s right in front of you but you don’t think about. Brilliant! (In my best Guiness guy voice. :stuck_out_tongue: ) I actually will probably try a combination of all of your suggestions. Thanks again!

#7

…to add to kyankton post, there is also The Kindt-Collins Company too which is a Pattern Shop & Foundry Supplies!

Dang, my catalog is soooo old there’s no website listed and the local Calif. phone number has been changed a couple of times! Also, just fliiping thru this catalog, I see where I need to get some stuff for my alum casting foundry molds I need to make too!:cool:

But try this (800) 321-3170 in Ohio main office number.

#8

What’s with Ohio and composites? It seems like there are many composite suppliers located in Ohio.

#9

Most composite resins last longer if refrigerator (?) and with how cold it is there???

#10

Oh yeah, I do have a question for you kyankton, when you glue the posterboard down with hot glue, do you ever have any problems with it messing up the surface when trying to remove it?

#11

Never really have any problems with the surface getting messed up. Usually, its just the opposite where I have trouble getting the glue to stick because the surface is so slippery.