Waxing

General Composites Discussions Equipment Talk
#1

I guess wax can be labeled “equipment”:confused:

Anyway, how do you guys apply wax? More specifically, what’s your processes? I’ve never had a problem with mold release and I don’t use PVA, but
I was asked this question and found I didn’t have a concrete answer…“If I wax on, wax off, am I removing wax if I rub too hard? (getting rid of streaks, etc)”

So…
How many days before actual use do you start applying wax, etc?
How thick do you apply?
What do you apply it with?
How long do you leave it before the next coat or before finishing up?
What do you use to finish/polish the surface? Microfiber towels, etc.

#2

Apply wax in a circular motion, covering the whole mold.
Let dry for 3 minutes.
Buff with microfiber towels.
Let it sit overnight before laying up.

On new molds we do 8 coats or plugs, then 3 coats on the mold after that.

#3

Thanks, I musta been buffing too soon before. I “felt” different this time as I let the wax sit longer.

#4

I keep the rag in the wax can (t-shirt box of rags from lowes) and it gets crazy saturated with wax…

I smear it on heavy…dont really buff hard at all.

Let it dry for 20 and lightly buff off.

New plugs get 5-8 coats

New molds get 3 coats for the first 3 pulls then 1 coat for every other pull after that.

#5

I guess we should add that you should use a good grade of high temp carnauba on anything composite. The possibilties for generating heat are high enough that it is risky to produce a part or a mold without the insurance of a god grade of high temp carnaube wax.
I too use the rag in a can and I wear latex golves to keep from making a mess with the wax on my cell phone if I get a qucik call.
I wipe it on in circular motion and before moving on to a new area follow up with a clean soft rag to disperse it better. This also helps to make sure you got it on everywhere. then I wait about 15 - 20 minutes and follow up with a wipe down and another clean rag rub out. Do this 5 times and I am ready for anything. follow up the final wipe down with a clean rag and make certain you look closely and use the lighting to see the surface. make sure all the wax is rubbed off . I don’t think you can polish too much.
I know the friction from rubbing casuse heat. This is what gives the wax a good seal on your pugs and molds. You are actually burnishing the carnauba wax into the surface when you rub it down.

#6

Great info guys!
I see many of you are waiting 5-20min before buffing. Do you do another coat immediately after and then wait again to buff?

I remember a Fiberglast video a long time ago where a coat was laid on and buffed off, then left to sit overnight. The whole waxing process was like 5 days!

#7

one after another…that vid sucked.

#8

I leave the wax for 3-5 minutes before buffing off. Wait about 10 minutes to apply the next coat. Leave overnight after the last coat before laying up.

#9

We use a product called “envirosheild” it is a semi-permanent mold release. you seal you mold with its sealer, 3 times. Then coat the mold 3 times with envirosheild. Typically we can get up to 20 parts before recoating

#10

I stay away from semi perm coatings due to it being so slippery that the gelcoat or resin wont stay and tends to pool up in areas.

#11

They are available in different “slipperyness” levels for that exact reason. Same long term protection, but require a little more work to demold. Also available are semi perm mold releases to add a matte finish.

#12

I use the same… great stuff.

#13

TR semi here for every mold and only recoat maybe once a year, even it doesn’t need it.

#14

Reviving this thread. I’m sure others will.get use out of the future answer to my question… Will gel coat fish eye if I brush it over a new mold that had been sealed 5 times and waxed 10 times? Orange polyester tooling gel coat that is.