Tooling gel thickness

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#1

Hi everyone one, I have a project in the making but before I start I wanna run it by the experts. So I have a race seat that i wanna copy. Its a Lo-Max by Bride, now thats in perfect condition but i wanna make ones with carbon and carbon/Kevlar. Right now the seat is stripped down and is just the seat its self- no fabric or plastic seat belt loops. Now I plan on spraying PVA then Orange Tooling gel to copy the seat.

The first question I have is how thick should the Tooling gel be on the plug? and the second can I use tooling gel then PE and chopped glass to back it?

Hopefully if things go well I will do a progress build.

You guys are awesome thank you in advance!

#2

Brush on a liberal to moderate amount… If you are gonna be doing many pulls I suggest a layer or two of fabric over the tooling gel. Makes for a stronger tool.

I used to chopper gun over tooling gel and… If you had a part stick chunks of tooling gel and fiber would have to be chiseled away.

Most tooling gels are pe some epoxy… Use pe with pe is my advise.

I don’t think you’ll run into any problems… Sure your not gonna use any wax?

#3

Quick question on this. I normally let the tooling gel get to stage B, then Ill apply resin and then my layers of fiberglass. Are you suggesting laying fiberglass directly onto the gel coat once it hits stage B, and then start with resin and additional layers fiberglass? This seems like a really good idea for making a strong mold.

#4

You can but it’s netter to brush resin then lay fabric. I did it that way and had where the gel broke loose from the fiber…

#5

Ok thats what i will do i just wasnt sure on how thick to go with the tooling gel. maybe 3 mil/-1/8 inch thick? then back it with some chopped glass. I wanna be able to make atleast 10 or so seats out of the mold.

#6

Without a gun I think chopped fibers a pain and messy. I prefer csm or glass tape.

#7

Depending on the gel coat, but I normally put 15-20 mils on a mold.

#8

If you are making a mold with tooling gel, I’d recommend 40 mills. Keep in mind… When that gel coat starts curing it will gas off and some material will evaporage. So you apply 40 mills, you’ll be left with 35 - 37 after shrinkage and evaporation. Remove another 5 mills for sanding and polishing and you are left with 30 mills. Always account for shrinkage and post work…

After that you’d want to add on at least 1/4th inch thick reinforcement behind the tooling gel. I always use 1.5oz matting. I then reinforce the mold with square bars. After that I build a frame out of wood to attach handles and keep the flanges from warping.

#9

Generally thicker than the part obviously but recommendations are usually made by each manufacturer for their specific gel. What system is it?

#10

Quick but important question: Are we talking epoxy or polyester here? (this is important in ALL questions).

UP gelcoat needs a certain thickness, 500 mu or 20 microns (am I correct? I am not good in imperial) but always check the datasheet of the gelcoat.

After cure I would first start with a light CSM, or even a veil, to prevent print. Possibly with VE resin. Afterwards you can beef things up with UP and CSM, or rapid tooling system.