Sorry, I should have posted this one first.

I got more questions, than I have answers, lol, please help!

Ill appologise about the length of this before hand…sorry.

Hello, Ive just found this forum two days ago and I was beginning to think I wouldnt be able to speak to anyone with practicle expertise, Ive read some of the messages that I feel are relevant to me, keep up the great work.

Im currentley an un-official apprentise if you like, to the wide world of working with, Fibreglass, Kevlar and Carbon Fibre. I have been doing this for 3/4 months now, an Im intent on starting some kind of trade within the next few weeks.

The gent teaching me has been doing it for ten years, give or take, an is intent on moving onto hotter ovens, vacum baggin etc. as he has operated at a level which meet low end demands and no more. I have sent alot of information his way as, if working conditions were to improve it would obiously benefit both of us. He is heavily involved in amature/semi professional motorsport, an therefore has no real movtivation to make pieces he uses as close to perfect as they could be, specifically I mean pin holes, edges etc., all the final details.

I however aim to make custom or otherwise pieces for the car modiyfying market, and need to have pieces as close to an Autoclave version as possible. I am interested in the following ;

What wax/es do you use, are they the longer lasting ones, i.e. they dont need to be reapplied to the mould everytime you lay up.

I apply it with sponge (or whats left or it) twice, what do you do/use? Do you always polish up after every wax coat has cured?

What release agent do you use, again I use sponge to apply it, once, is there a better way?

I apply the gel coat (heavily) with a brush, Ive actually started leaning the ratio of gel an hardner, so that it takes that bit longer to set, it helps the gel get a hold of whatever Im moulding, an gives any trapped air bubbles longer to push through and away from the surface, therefore not resulting in pin holes, a cracked gel coat, or worse a useless mould. But again any input you may have would be appreciated.

When laying up, I use brushes to apply the resin then pat it all over, and if the mould allows it, we use a metal roller to really press the fibres into the mould/rid surface imperfections, again any input is appreciated.

Incase you havent already guessed we nearly always use moulds, an mine tend to be one piece, as its alot of work perfectly polishing away ridges in the gel coat where mould joins have been, any tips on getting pieces out without cracking the gel coat would be also quite good.

P.S. if youve ever made an item which is bolted on, do you find the head of the bolt can crack the gel coat when its tightened up??

wow… you do have a lot of questions. lol ok let me try to answer them

I just use whatever wax that the supplier has in stock at the time. Any carnuba wax will do the job, most of the time. I normally wax once before every layup but I don’t sweat it if I happen to forget. I use wax only as an insurance ontop of my semi permanent release agent. The wax is wiped off after it’s completely dry. I don’t polish the mold after removing the wax.

The release agent I used to use is called Releasomer. It’s a semi permanent release agent that’s good for 5-10 pulls per application. I have recently switched to a new brand that I will refrain from naming for now until I figure out how well it really works.

Before I comment on your gelcoating techniques… are you referring to epoxy based gelcoat or PER/VER based gelcoat?

I stopped patting/stippling the brush for layups. I find that doing so only breaks the large air bubbles into millions of smaller ones. Ribbed rollers work good but bristle roller works even better. You should give that a try if you haven’t done so already.

I’m assuming that you’re trimming the parts while it’s in B stage. I do the same, except I leave a small portion of it untrimmed. That way it gives me something to grab onto and work my demolding wedges into the mold to remove the parts.

If you’re having a lot of problems with cracked gelcoat, try cutting down on the ratio of resin/MEKP. Hot gelcoat = brittle gelcoat.

Hope i didn’t miss anything
Evan

Im looking for a supplier of bristle rollers here in Bonnie Scotland, as I type this, cheers!! :smiley:

Is the application of the waxes and release agents (with the sponge) the best method?

What does MEKP stand for??

Just read one of the other posts, now Im worried :shock: …if I make a peice in CF which is bolted onto the engine, an Ive just used normal resins, will it def. discolour??

Ive had to do a bit of work to a mould, should I spray it with laquer to regain the gloss finish?

I apply the semi-permanent release with a clean cloth and apply wax with the sponge. It seems to work best for me.

MEKP stands for Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide. It’s the catalyst used with polyester and vinyl ester resin.

If it gets hot enough your resin won’t just discolor but it can also warp and gets cooked.

You could either wet sand and polish the mold or you could thin out your tooling gel coat and spray a thin even coat on it. Either way you’ll end up polishing the mold.

Your always there when I need you Evan :wink:, thanks again!!