So this is what happened with that tank cover that was really botched when I infused. Since then I have worked out the infusion problems (i hope). It took a few layers of epoxy that I ended up sanding back and then clearing (too much work!) to fill in some of the voids and dry spots that plagued me at that point. It looks a lot better then what it originally did…
lookin good
looks veeeery nice, want to do one for my R6 when I get around to it. What did you clearcoat with?
When I use 2k automotive as a topcoat I cant avoid the dust no matter what I do, its almost like the carbon fibre exagerates this problem and shows it up more. Any suggestions to avoid lots of buffing?
I was thinking maybe an enclosed spray cabinet and extraction system almost like a big blasting cabinet.
2 part mold?
I don’t have spray experience but have talkid to numerous paint guys, might be too much pressure that you are spraying with, the extraction might help a bit.
I used a spray can… I can’t/don’t want to invest so much in spray equip stuff and don’t have a place even to use it…
no it was a 1 part, I was worried that the part would never come out (was the 1st one I pulled on the mold) but I made sure to apply a few coats of TR high temp wax and a light misting of pva and it just about fell out of the mold despit the curve-back-on-itself-contour.
I haven’t done any infusions lately, but i hope when i do i’ve got solutions to the problems I’ve had in the past.
Infusion is tricky to get right, it’s a learning process as i have found out.
I too have done what you did with this tank cover 20_RC51. It’s extra work for sure.
Quick question… im curious as to how you’ll make the 3 posts/tabs in the inside where a clip/nut get placed for the screw to the metal bracket on the tank. + the back U shaped clips that also go into a bracket + the 2 bottom ones. ?? =)
very good stuff, good work
I didn’t lol, it’s carbon it’s so light that the main hole is more then enough and with the 2 velcro tabs that come stock
when clearing carbon parts you have to antistatic the part. theres a few procucts out there at local automotive paint shops that will work great.
static will always attract dust and carbon is like a magnet. if your in a spray booth build a carbon panel and sand it outside the booth to build up a charge. then blow it off with air. do not wipe it down. the panel needs have a insulated handle. hang behind 2 to three feet or so behind the part. or in front. have the air flow hit the backside of the parts your spraying.
the carbon panel will actually generate static from air moving past it and will attract dust particles to it and away from a grounded part. or parts
i have on numerous occassions seem sanding dust swirl around ungrounded aircraft in a high velocity paint booth. it looks creepy and is very dangerous.