These small projects I overlayed are a direct result of hanging around here picking up bits and pieces and many hours of trial and error.
Thanks to all senior members for sharing info to get me started and Evan for generating the board.
These small projects I overlayed are a direct result of hanging around here picking up bits and pieces and many hours of trial and error.
Thanks to all senior members for sharing info to get me started and Evan for generating the board.
Switch panel Reloaded
Satisfaction is great, isn’t it?
Great job.
Congratulations.
Yes it is I appreciate the vote of confidence.
Same old thing, the more you do it, the luckier you get.
Thanks
damn, that is one nice camera nice pieces too.
It’s my wifes Samsung Digimax V70. It’s a few months old and 7 megapixel does shine over my 3.1.
My hats off to you guys for the help. I hope to be infusing as soon as the construction work is over with.
are those overlay, or bagged?looks really good.
Overlays glued with 77, epoxyed, and 12+ coats of Hellmsman Spar Urethane(spray can) from Lowes. I’m not buffing the last coat but alot of sanding before. 320-1000
This is a labor intensive process and I don’t like the surface hardness.
Not sure how well this polyester base glue will hold up?
I’ll spray a Du Pont 2-part polyurethane on top.
Hope it helps
Thanks for the kudos
This is a noob question but what does the hellmsman spar urethane do? and also you said your going to spray the 2 part Du pont on top what does that do? Thank for the info.
The urethane adds depth and UV protection because the clear coat epoxy on the material doesn’t.
The surface can be scratched without something really hard on it.
The urethane, if built up will give you an amber tint that you might or might not like.
If you use an automotive clear coat urethane with uv protectant, it will remain clear. that is what they use on your car to protect the base coats and mettalics. It doesn’t get yellow. Valspar is a marine clear and it usually doesn’t matter if the urethane gets yellow since it is used over wood in normal circumstances.
I couldn’t find auto clear in a rattle can locally and not setup to shoot just yet. Don’t like the yellowing although only one piece has it so far.
I did find some Du Pont Chromoclear 7500S and 7575S reducer but I didn’t want to build it up with something this thin and hard to sand between coats.
doogie Have you used this 7500 or do you prefer another?
I am not familiar with that product. I have used a few, but Jet set seems to make the best one for my use. it sparys on heavy and can be heated for quicker snading and poliching. we can go back into it if we use the spot hardener inabout 45 minutes by heating it with heat lamps. I believe it is made by marhyde, (bondo)
I can get it at 2 different suppliers near me.
They state 2-3 wet coats allowing 10 minutes min. to flash between coats, 30 minutes at 140*, wait 6-8 hrs then buff.
http://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=Dupont+Chromaclear+7500S
I warm my resin with a hair dryer to help eliminate bubbles and thin it with great results. Out of curiousity I shot it with my IR temp gun and found I was reaching 133*. I was gelling in 10-15 with exotherm big time from my pot.
Thinking heat is good I accidently overheated my project and generated micro crackes. :oops: either too rapid of a cool down or just too hot for the already curing coats is my thinking? Another lesson learned