Silicone treated Peel Ply?

You guys seem to be exposed to many of the latest tech advances and I was curious if you had tried some of the newer coated PP?

I’ve got a boat project I will use epoxy, S-2 glass with a final layer of Carbon/Kevlar hybrid material for cosmetic purpose. A friend from the UK is telling me to use PP on top of the C/K so once pulled, I can shoot a clear catalysed coating on top. Once sanded and polished, it wil be UV protected and showpiece perfect. He builds 175’ superyachts and as well as you leaders has my utmost respect in this field.

If you are familiar with a particular brand available in the states I’d appreciate any light you can shed here.

I was also interested in any crystal clear epoxy ya’ll might have run into?

Thanks in Advance
Robert

Never spray Epoxy resins at all! Deadly!

Hawaiiain is what Epoxy we use in the classroom from Santa Barbara area.

The UV clear coat is an automotive spray paint coating.

Silicone coated Peel Ply would be redonent (dbl.) as any PE or PP plastic no resin will stick to them!

Sorry to misinform.
What I mean is rolling the epoxy the whole project, then PP on top of the C/K.
Once the PP is pulled, Shoot Ultra clear catalysed VER.
I have read many threads on the PP being very hard to remove without pulling a layer up.
I know it is possible to find silicone treated PP but what I don’t understand is with this leaching into a project, you might have trouble getting anything else to stick to it. You would have to sand it out defeating the advantage of using the PP.
This is why I asked about it, just curious if you had tried it.

Could you please explain in detail why spraying epoxy is Deadly?

the hardeners contain Amines and or Diamines which are toxic, spraying them atomizes these compounds and makes injestion either by breathing or thru skin contact easier.

We use Airtech blue peelply all the time. We use it because it gives it a fabric style finish for bonding, and secondary coating/painting. IF the layup is thin, then you have to be VERY careful when pulling the PP.
It’s like a layer of cloth. After cure, it will soak up some resin, but will just peel right off with work. Keep the angle VERY VERY acute when pulling it off. ie: don’t pull if off straight up, or it might delam the other layers. if you pull it off only a few deg from where you are pulling, and carefully, you won’t have any problems. I only have issues when I have many pieces, each one I have to pry up with a razor. Otherwise, it just peels off, and/or rips.

I’ve gathered that if injested into your lungs as a vapor, the danger is when you exhale your lung tissue can actually stick together. This naturally would be a bad way to go!!! Not concidering what it can do once in the bloodstream. Cast iron dust gives a sweet taste in your mouth but won’t stick your lung tissue together. The issue there is you can’t expel(cough up) a large amount so you have to have your lungs scraped. It’s what you’re not aware of that will kill you.

How many people use thinners to wipe off resins which simply helps drive it into your body. Use two gloves on each hand so you can rip the soiled glove off and move on.

It would be great to be able to spray Epoxies but I’ll let someone else jump on that hand grenade.

riff42 Thanks for the input, I here a lot about the PP being a pain if things aren’t just right. My buddy down under had PP on 3 layer wet out at the same time. Rolled out, then the next day they would rip the PP and light sand any spurs. I’m thinking he had enough layers, the delam wasn’t an issue for him and the faster kicking PER.

I was thinking of rolling the PP on top and wait till the green stage, then wipe the excess resin off of the PP with a thinner. My thinking here is the resin is working like a rivet through the PP. If I remove the head of the rivet, It will not want to delam the project. A heating blanket at 100* for three days to help post cure the layers is suppose to add roughly 20% integrity to any epoxy, might help keep things put. Is this crazy?

PP is only just a sheet to make the cured part workable. Be it for painting, or another layer/cure.
We use it for a layer of 120 FB, copper mesh, then CF. After that, we can layer up another CF, core, etc etc. it is a bonding issue. If you want a finished glossy top layer, then PP is not for you. Well…THIS kind. I think there are other kinds that leave different finishes. Read product desc., then choose.

I like that well said…:slight_smile:

riff42
I checked out your site and bike pieces. Cooool but I don’t know what the 120 FB is? The PP I have is 1.8 oz. I think polyester from RAKA.com. This is a boat project and the price of the material is that I have one shot to get it right. Thats why I’m gathering info so I won’t screw it up.

Technique for a small project can change when you move from a small sample test to laying 8yds. of material at once. I admittedly don’t have the expeience that some of you might take for granted and I appreciate the help.

One other safety precaution I will mention that happens daily is cooking in plastic containers. If you heat veggies or the like in a microwave, this is fine. If you heat any fatty meats to the point of boiling the grease you create a biproduct that is a known carcinogen. The plastic boils and you see the evidence when you wash the bowl out. Bubbled plastic. Sorry to stray from the subject but again what we don’t know can kill us.

Thanks again for the board and the info.