rifle stock plug detail

General Composites Discussions Composites Talk
#1

I’ve been working on several rifle stock plugs for what seems to be an eternity now. To date I have two plugs nearly ready for molding, and a number of plugs in process, and two working prototypes. For simplicity I used Rustoleum rattle can primer initially, but soon discovered its way to porous to achieve a class A finish. Had no problems with release though on a test plug and mold finished in rattle can primer using Partall #2 wax and PVA. Everything released fine without pulling up the primer. Next, bought some Duratec surface primer and shot it over a test piece previously shot with rattle can stuff (I know this isn’t recommended) and it laid down OK, no apparent reaction with the exception of a few pinholes, but the thickness of the Duratec obliterated a texture detail I applied on the forearm and the grip. The texture is very subtle, and after trying numerous techniques I finally got exactly what I want, so I’m not willing to change this. I’ve heard of some that thin Duratec, and I did cut it with 10% laquer thinner on my first go at it, but it still went down way to heavy for my liking. Can you cut it more, or should I try another product to retain the detail of my texture? Is it even possible to lay this stuff down without orange peel?
I know Adam at wyowindworks uses PPG automotive paint but I don’t remember what it is or his process.
Thanks in advance,I love this forum!

Jon

#2

Use about any automotive 2K PU paint, which you can spray really thin if needed.

Why on earth do you thin a polyester based product with laquer thinner? Trying to make your life some more exciting? Please do not experiment with plugs and molds, it might end up frustrating.

#3

Also have had very good results on small plugs with 2k automotive paints followed by a several clears wet on wet gave a very nice hard non porous finnish and good release.

#4

I use duratec primer all the time.
cut it with MEK (not mekp) i’ve used acetone also.
stay away from the rattle can stuff.

I also use PCL 901 polyester primer. cut it with acetone and it will thin down a lot. the PCL will release nice, you can buff it

I use TR buff compound

#5

I’m an admitted rookie with all this (obviously!) and get lost in the sea of products available. I obviously need to stop and study the basic chemistry of these coatings to better understand their uses and parameters. I had met with the local PPG rep in my area a month ago and he discouraged me from using automotive 2k urethanes…said they were meant to apply to steel only. At least that is what I understood him to say. Liability probably had a lot to do with it knowing he was talking to the uneducated.
The rattle can stuff was only to facilitate until the HVLP gun purchase. Knew long ago it probably wasn’t wise because of the re-work issue but it did help me get started with my projects. Wish now I had purchased a gun long ago, but thats hind sight. After further thought, I know now I didn’t have sufficient pressure at my gun tip and had obviously thinned the Duratec improperly. With all this in mind I will take a much different approach to crafting my plugs from here forward and give the Duratec more consideration and experiment with some 2k auto paints.
I have the cheap $40 Harbor Freight HVLP gun that comes with 1.4 tip. Would this be sufficient to shoot clear or should I get something else?
All of your time, patience, and advise is much appreciated!

Jon

#6

Jon, I use PPG Deltron DC3000 with great success. The Harbor Freight gun with 1.4 tip will spray clear coats, auto paint, and PVA surprising well. It won’t work really well when spraying higher viscosity products like primers because the tip is a little small.

Adam

#7

note: spray guns require a lot of cfm from the compressor to run them.
not just psi.

I sprayed this stock that I made with a low end gun
spies hecker clear