Reusable vacuum bag

So, we’ve been getting into allot of carbon fiber overlaying over the past few months. Meaning, a customer will send us his OEM part, and we’ll wrap it in a single layer of carbon fiber.

Before, I’d dry bag the part, (bag it with no resin coating) and then coat the part after I pull it out of the bag. The benefit to this was the fabric would be compressed to the part and will not lift as I apply resin.

Lately, I’ve been wet bagging it. Applying the carbon fiber, wetting it, then putting it in a bag. The problem with this is the creases and folds in the bag leaves marks on the carbon fiber. That gives the part an undesirable finish and a whole lot more post work.

I’d like to find a thick bag that can conform very well to interior parts, release well, and can be reused at a later date.

We’re thinking of just buying a vacuum table, but if we’re able to try something else first, it would be in our best interest.

Below is a picture to show some of the complex curves we would need a bag to fit into.

Also, I’ve been using Stretchlon’s bags, but I’m never really satisfied with those bags. They tear, leave lots of wrinkle, self pleat allot, and are not reusable. To my knowledge.

http://www.smooth-on.com/Vacuum-Bagging/c1334/index.html

http://mositesrubber.com/news-silicone_bags.htm

http://www.arlon-std.com/Products/vacuum.htm

Nice looking parts, I try not to do much overlaying but have done hundreds of parts. You can see some on my site gallery at roguese7ens.com/photos. What works best for me is after sanding the surface apply a thin coat of epoxy and after it begins to becomes tacky, apply the carbon and place it in a bag. If the epoxy layer is thin enough and somewhat tacky (b stage) it will not flow through to the top side of the fabric but after curing will firmly hold the carbon in place. After this the top surface can be built up.
Another method I use, depending on the part and it’s shape, is to apply a thicker coat of epoxy, and when tacky apply the carbon and bag it. This time the resin will flow to the top and fill some of the creases in the plastic. So what I do is right after the resin has set up and the carbon is stuck to the part, I take the bag off and wipe the part with acetone. This removes the still somewhat soft epoxy and cleans the surface for build up a few hours later.

I am curious as to why you don’t just build your own vacuum table to begin with. The only part that really matters to your surface is the latex. Everything else is nil. There are a lot of home built vacuum tables on youtube built out of wood, you would just need to add a sheet of latex instead of polycarbonate. It will allow you to experiment on the cheap. I would suggest a quiet vacuum source or a noise chamber of some sort though. It would get old listening to a vacuum cleaner for hours on end.

[ame=“http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVVE5EHzRnk”]Vacuum Forming Home Style - YouTube[/ame]