Is it really better for complex parts? Any problems with it? Same peeling performance as classic plain?
I have not seen twill weave peelply. Most of what i have seen is nylon that is finely woven “plain weave” i think.
Got a link to the product you are talking about?
Mike… you should build a quality compression mold/s for bike frames and use an inflatable bladder inside the lay up. The mold would be costly, unless you can machine it yourself perhaps at a colleg’s machine shop or if you know someone with a machine shop.
Then all you need is a small hydraulic press and heat to heat the aluminum mold halves. You could make a monocoque frame triangle this way. Not only one frame… but many and make decent $. The tooling would all be paid by the frames you sell.
I thought about this for compression molds… using aluminum with water passages drilled thru the mold die… pipe hot water thru the passages. Or i’m sure there are other ways to heat the molds for curing.
You’d could use prepreg unidirection for ultimate strength too.
How do you suggest the layup is performed if using a bladder? Not as easy as it seems…
Fastrr I know very well how to make bladder molded hollow parts from prepregs. But for me its not possible to machine aluminum alloy two part mold, build heated pneumatic press (like Radius engineering…) buy and store prepregs etc… And Im not talking about next 2, two part molds for chainstays and seatstays, tons of high quality machined parts for frames and so on… Thats ton of money. So I sticked to infusion. Im trying to learn it and make some money on parts. Im also still researching ways ho to make frames with VARTM.
But back to the twill peel ply. I was googling and find a document with peel ply test. Thay was unable to remove nylon twill peelply without damage to the surface…
Document is too large to post here…
do you really care much about the inside surface? if you have troubles with curves, use smaller peelply pieces…stick them with some adhesive spray…
I dont care so much, but when I use small overlapping pieces, sometimes Im not able to peel it (if small piece is completely under larger).
That is what I do… use smaller pieces of peel ply to prevent bridging problems. It does take a little longer to peel off but it works.
maybe it is the brand/type of peel ply you are using Mike?
There are economy peel plies out there that are horrible to try and peel off.
the last one i peeled off the hood was a real bitch, but it wasnt the peel ply’s fault, the breather fabric had sucked a lot of resin, and it had become real tough!
I use it without problems. I get it from Ritter & Lange in Germany.
Cheers
Thanks for help guys. Its out of stock right now so I will try it later. Im not sure what brand it is. White with red stripes as always made from Nylon66.