Hi guys, my part are getting stuck to the mold and this is the 2nd time for this to happen no matter how much i have polished my mold even after applying 6 coats of mequires mold release.any idea where i could be going wrong 
Thanks
maybe the mold has pores or the surface isn’t glossy and flat. Use pva and wax
do you have any angles in the mold that doesn’t allow it to just pop free? large 90deg sides can do that as well.
-what kind of tool are you using
-how much products came out of the mould already
-what resin are you using
-what temperatures are you using
-what mould release are you using (Meguiar’s has several)
-what procedure for waxing are you using
PVA should not be neccesary in all but the hardest cases.
Hi Herman, below are answers to the questions u asked
-what kind of tool are you using [mold is made from polyester gelcoat]
-how much products came out of the mould already [only 1 which got stuck on the tool]
-what resin are you using [Epoxy SP115]
-what temperatures are you using [not curing in an over :(]
-what mould release are you using (Meguiar’s has several) [M-87 High Temp Mold Release Wax]
-what procedure for waxing are you using [as outlined on M-87]
I’m tempted to rant…but I’ll refrain. 
I’ve had problems with using only release wax and epoxy resins…regardless of the wax. When using epoxies I always use wax+pva or Frekote FMS sealer+Frekote 770-nc release. The best release with wax is no where near as easy a semi release…at least in my experience. I did 16 coats of wax once and still had issues in long term performance. In my opinion it’s a waste of time to do more than 4 coats of wax.
Sealing a mold with Frekote FMS sealer can make a big difference if using waxes or a semi 770-nc. I always seal regardless of the mold face material (aluminum, PE, epoxy, urethane) and the release.
Here is some other good info about why molds stick: WHY MOLDs STICK The article is for polyester based resins and may not directly apply for epoxies. The reactivity issue and mold seasoning with epoxy takes longer than it does with PE based products. In some cases you may never get a superb release with only wax and epoxy resins. In my experience, with the epoxy resins that I use, there is no seasoning period with a semi-permanent release system (sealer + release).
I agree in general with Wyo.
A semi permanent relies heavily on a sealer to get the best performance. At Zyvax they call the sealer their “insurance policy”.
Green moulds are a pig to break in. Best solution is to apply wax and PVA, and slosh in 2 or 3 polyester products, some 3-4mm thick. Sell them or discard them. After that you can move to wax only. Meguiars M87 should work fine. Apply sparingly, leave to dry for a minute or so, break the surface by wiping with a soft cloth, leave to dry for 10-15 minutes, and buff with a clean cloth. You will go through cloth rapidly.
With semi perms, apply 2 layers of sealer, or as much as the supplier recommends, then 1 or 2 coats of release, and you are done for a couple of products. (up to 10 usually). After that a single coat of release is all you need.
I use SP product quiet a bit a couple of things spring to mind
1/ The resin is not fully cured which can be a problem at this time of year as the surface may seem cured but the mould surface side due to lower temperature of mould is not fully cured. Use some heat also remember your any heat applied to the surface laminate will take time to filter through to the mould surface side if you have a thick laminate or core.
2/ Some of the sp resins especially the slower hardeners can be quiet corrosive in nature the longer they remain on the mould in an uncured state the more time they have to eat through the release agents. I have experienced problems in the past resin with fast hardener gets good release same resin with slow hardener sticks up and pulls out little chunks of mould surface.
What sort of damage are you getting to your mould?
3/ Your mould may not be fully cured and sealed.
I will second wyo’s comments,
I have also been unable to obtain a decent release with just wax and I never applied less than 5 coats and allowed them to “set” as per the instructions. This process would basically take about 3 hours to actually perform.
I tried PVA + WAX and the release was great but getting a good surface finish was a struggle as the PVA had a tendency of beading on the wax. There’s probably I solution to this but I didn’t bother asking.
After trolling this forum, I switched to the freekote FMS sealer and semi permanent release. Easily the best piece of information I’ve found yet on this forum. 1 coat of each, the release is SUPER easy, the surface finish is better than the PVA and the labour is less. I recommend NOT using the spray can variety as it doesn’t last long, just get the can, wipe on with a lint free cloth and let it dry.
I do have one lingering question though.
With such an effective mold release, what is the recommended preparation for painting to remove the release. I haven’t had to cross this bridge yet. All of the parts I’ve made thus far are either nude (perfect) or heavily sanded due the apathy I enounter doing a wet lay-up of a non molded part.
The process is the same prep for any surface to be painted. You want to sand the surface with 400 to 600 grit and paint. If you don’t sand then you risk adhesion issues (which has nothing to do with the release).