Paint?

General Composites Discussions Products Talk
#1

Wheres the best place in the US for fiberglass parts?

Im in search of:
1- Base and Top coats for fiberglass parts
2- Clear coat with UV protection
3- A flex agent to add.

#2

  1. What do you mean base and top coats? Gelcoat and laminating resins? Try US Composites or Fiberglass Supply.

  2. Polyurethane automotive clears are your best choice. Try an auto paint supply store.

  3. For flexible parts? There is really no agent to add. Flexibility is in the properties of the resin. You have to choose a resin that is designed to be flexible.

#3

ah contre on the PER flex agent as Rev Chem has it and we use it in our 4 cylinder stock car body panels as rubbin is racin…

#4

seems polyurethane clears are marketed for spraying wood? why is it better than cellulose or acrylic?

#5

Urethane enamel clear coats…the devil to spray without masks so be carefull.

Most auto paint is Acrylic or Urethane…Hard clear coats are Urethane and they hold up the best. I use HOUSE OF COLOR as it comes with a tad more UV additive for protecting custom paint. Not much but anything is better than nothing.

#6

Don’t know if people have used this stuff before but it does look very promising.
www.Endura.ca
I just picked up a pint of each a/b of the EX-2C 100 clear coat. Going to try it this week some time.
here is a link to their pdf info sheet.
http://www.endura.ca/adobe/topcoats/ex2cclear100.pdf

#7

I use PPG, you get what you pay for with paint most of the time.

#8

thanx guys. hey tell me how it goes with that clear coat you just got =)

#9

that, i did not know… i’ll have to look into that.

#10

I use Endura, it’s pretty good stuff just make sure you wear a mask when spraying it. Did you get it from Canada Composites?

#11

A friend of my pointed this site out for me.
http://www.hokpaint.com/scripts/depot.exe?pgm=hokgate.bbx

#12

Sure did, great guys there, Been dealing with them for almost 5 years now.
Getting there sucks most of the time for me though. I’m on the east end of T.O. in Ajax. :frowning: So I share a 905custom with ya, lol :wink:

#13

Ive been trying this (for those of us in the UK)http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/CFS_Catalogue__Bonda_Seal_Clear_271.html. its a polyurethane clear with UV protection. According to the data it has excellent adhesion qualities to glassfibre and the same as Endura can be used on wooden floors so should be extremely tough. My problem with automotive clears was the adhesion.

Baz

#14

It’s even worse for me…I’m in Niagara. Usually I just get everything shipped.

#15

i just tried a poly clear and it came up really milky within a few seconds and fisheyes all over,i cleaned the part totally with panel wipe,shook the can for 5 mins and the room was warmwhat the hell went wrong??? i wiped it straight off and re-did it with the cellulose ive been using which is fine.

#16

water in your lines most likely. I found that I couldn’t even spray my Duratec without a dryer (when I first tried it)

what clear were you using?

#17

it was from an aersol can not a gun.

#18

Try spraying thinner or lighter coats, let it tack up, spray again and let it set up. It may clear up with time or sunlight (heat), but…?

#19

hrrmmm water in the can?? :stuck_out_tongue: lol

poly varnish, will usually turn milky, some even say it on the can, it does go away though. As werksburg said, spray thinner coats.
Fisheyes or pinholes?? both can be created if its put on too thick. Don’t use a panel wipe, try using rubbing alcohal