twill is difficult to keep nice n straight. I lay out the cloth on a flat surface like clean floor. Then i roll it evenly onto a cardboard tube. Then i unroll it onto the mold or car surface. Scrim sounds good though. You could use 4oz fiberglass cloth and spray glue it to one side of the cf. The resin will then disolve the glue.
I used VER resin on the hood and roof. Last coat ( before the urethane clear coat) i sprayed down clear gel coat mixed with 50% Duratec clear gloss addative. Next day i block sanded it all flat and smooth, then urethane clear coated.
A clear polyester would have worked better than the dark amber VER i used. I also tinted my urethane clear with a little black basecoat paint… 1oz to 7oz of clear.
I’m just not sure if there is a clear polyester resin with no surfacing wax in it. The wax would just add extra work and be bad for urethane clear coating.
I’m not an expert on doing car roofs or hoods. I did learn a lot from doing them and hopefully can save some people some trouble or from having many problems.
We also wrapped the cars fully in plastic sheeting to protect the paint and trim work. Wet sanding the roofs made block sanding much easier. If you do a large part use sanding blocks the whole way, and not sand too much in any one area. Keep the block moving across the surface evenly so there are not low or high spots. stop sanding as soon as you see the medium grey hue of carbon showing thru resin… sanding into the carbon itself will cause ugly weave.
Also … the hood on the red camaro is a Seibon hood, we did nothing to it. The fit is good to the car, but the hood is permanently locked closed because of some clearance issue they can’t open their hood.