So I have made a few molds. Each one I had to make several times because I don’t have a spray gun for the tooling gel ect. And to be honest I would almost prefer to pay someone to do it. That way it’s perfect and saves time.
So are their any company’s or individuals that make molds on the side?
Probably they are but don’t expect to be cheap, molds can be really expensive. Also you don’t have to use a spray gun for the gelcoat, there are two types of gelcoat the ones made for spraygun and others for brush (thicker) if the gelcoat is good quality you can apply it with brush very easily even in large surfaces.
Husq, have you ever considered using an epoxy top coat (gelcoat). You can actually make your own, or buy it if you want.
From what I understand, epoxy surface coats are more durable allowing for more part pulls. Also, epoxy surface coats are super easy to apply.
Check out the surface of a recent test mold I made. And it feels very durable.
How did you apply it? I’m using tooling gel coat. For the most part they come out nice. But in some areas I’m getting alligator or whatever it’s called. The gelcoat is too thin and wrinkles. I don’t have a dump gun. It might be cheaper just to send my panels to someone that can make quality molds.
I just brushed it on with a chip brush. You don’t have to worry nearly as much about gelcoat thickness variation when applying epoxy surface coat. It’s much more user friendly.
Here you can see the brushed finish on the bowl after brushing on the 2nd coat. You can see small pock marks on the surface of the epoxy. This happens when you quickly sweep a torch flame over the epoxy surface. The flame quickly pops all of the bubbles in the gelcoat.
To make this top coat, I simply mixed some Cabosil and aluminum powder with plain ol’ laminating epoxy. The resulting surface is shiny and hard.
Thanks for the help!! Any company or system you prefer? I don’t mind spending good money on my molds as long as they nice. I want to do the box type mold blocks. None of my current planed parts are bigger than 3’x3’ and only a few inches deep.
I was looking at huntsman, freeman. Basically I want a step by step process. Lol dummy proof. My head hurts enough wording about all the other variables in carbon construction. Thanks and aloha
I will second advblane’s recommendation. I’ve used the Freeman Supply system with very good success. Check out their videos to learn more about their products.
The last mold that I made used epoxy top coat (brushed on), several layers of glass with epoxy, then their tooling dough, then a few more layers of glass. This yielded a very stiff mold in basically a night. This mold won’t take allot of temperature but great for a quick mold.
This isn’t the cheapest way to make a mold from a material prospective but time saved in layup easily justifies the cost.
Looks good. Could you give a little more info on ratios and maybe some links to the products you used to make this mold? I’m going to attempt basically the same thing but with a plate instead.
Alligatoring? Can you tell me more about what you are using, and what you are doing? Alligatoring is quite common, and usually very easy to solve.
-how much catalyst
-what type of gelcoat
-which temperature
-which overcoat time
-which type of laminating resin, catalyst and ratio, and resulting geltime.
-are your moulds dish shaped
Polyester tooling gelcoat has better shine and gloss retention than epoxy products, and the backfill can be cheaper as well, although there are relatively cheap solutions in epoxy as well. (using poraver, epoxy foam, etc.)
Aloha I would seriously think about using a tooling gel for hand application it costs less and is simpler to apply with less to go wrong. Its possible to do quiet large moulds this way I have lost count on how many moulds I have done like this over the last 20 odd years. Use a large roller to get the gel coat on the mould then brush out with a 3-4 inch brush keep a 1 inch brush handy to get in the corners. For moulds I prefer to do this rather than spray as it makes for a thicker gel surface than spraying which helps later on with refinishing/buffing or repairing damage. Beware of salesmen talking you into expensive equipment and products when parts can often be done just as well with a bucket and three inch brush.
Currently making a plug for a 17 foot canadian canoe mould, spaying tooling gel for the mould surface would not even be a consideration when the bucket and brush method is both easy and cost effective. Normally only use spray gels when using metallic or metal flake gel coats or sometimes to help keep weight down.
Edit I would also agree with hermin’s comments. I prefer extra laminate to the backfill method but its horses for courses, how the mould is constructed should be done to suit how the part will be produced.
I was brushing on tooling gel, but somehow I always seem to jack it up.
I just bought a gallon of this here
http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Orange_Tooling_Gel_Coat_just_gel_coats_188/Gel_Coats
Which one do you use that somehow get’s jacked up?
Apply the right thickness, make sure you end up without severe brush strokes, catalyse as instructed, or even on the high side, make sure dished objects stand on their side, so excess styrene can flow out (styrene is heavier than air, and a styrene blanket inhibits cure). Make sure it is hot enough (should not be a problem in your place)