making some intercooler piping

General Composites Discussions Composites Talk
#1

Hi all,

I’ve been reading the board a bit and learn lots from you guys. I just started fooling around with fiber and all that and made a few parts already and some with molds as well. I would now like to make my self some intercooler piping for my car but cant figure out how I should build the part.

So far, my piping is on my car but can be removed quickly. It has a few bends here and there. all the weldings are grinded down as well so its all smooth. I was thinking of making a mold of some sort even if its a multi-piece mold.

Now that i am writing this it makes me think of those models at the comercial center that are dressed… the cant be full…just like easter bunny… how the $%?&* can I achive that? I was thinking of using a carbon sleeve as well… i cant wimply but it over top the existing tube though since the tube will then be bigger and wont fit anymore… I feel lost!

pic of the said tubing:

#2

There has been discussion on how to make tubing on here for ages.
1: Aquacore. Disolvable ceramic material, that you shape/machine, layup over the part, and then wash it out. Problems are, if you don’t use their sealer, it will leave a layer of material int he tube. Also, it IS hard to work with, without a REAL mold…it’s wet sand.
2: Smart molds. plastic tubes that area heated in a mold, they retain their shape with compressed air. Layup the part, and cure, with or without a closed mold. Heat the part and the plastic softens, and you pull it out.
3: 2 part mold. Hard to layup, since you have to do 2 halves, and then somehow piece it together. Hard to get no flash on the EOM. However, you can put a bladder on the inside of the part to compress on the 2 mold halves.
4: foam core mold. Shapes easy, but you have to find a way to chip out/disolve out the foam on the inside!

(anyone got more? still no coffee in me)

Now, I don’t know what the PSI/"hg measurments are inside an intercooler tube, but it must withstand high pressure and or vacuum I think? You will need a few layers of CF, and I would suggest a layer or 2 of kevlar.

Materials:
Straight CF: if there are major bends, you will need to learn how to dart and seam the fabric well. Can’t have too many seams in the same place, or the part WILL fail.
braided sock: good choice! When pulled on the ends, it will wrap and compress itself onto the tube mold (if using an inside mold) and take minor bends.

resin: how hot do these tubes get? must make sure it can handle the high-temps!!!

#3

And, other than it wouldn’t be the look of CF - there are metal sleeve braids to dress up the engine room - just slip over the existing hose - no problems.

I suppose you could use CF sleeve(s) and epoxy over the existing inter-cooler tube too. Again, heat would be a concern for the resin choice. Why make a mold after all? Want the experience (and frustration)?

Cheers - Jim

#4

i always wondered if you could use aquapour and then do a couple layers of filamnet winding and then add your carbon sleeving over that. i know that thats how the do the carbon c02 tanks minus the sleeving.

#5

Well if all you want is a look, then no. Overlay with a braid and resin.
experience and frustration are all part of making parts that work!

#6

why bother with the sleeve if you go through the trouble of winding? Depending on the wind pattern, you can get awesome looking tubes!

#7

thank you very much for all the great info!

the piping does not have to withstand really hot air. there is anywhere from 25hg to 25psi in the tubing and it aint for looks. The plan is to weight down the car as much as possible. all glass is being replaced with lexan doors, trunk, hoood, fenders will all be carbon fiber as well. The reason i was aking about molding is because i want to be able to make a few copies in case something happens so that i dont have to start from scratch and maybe eventually sell those if they look good and work great. CF looks amazing, but performance first and looks second.

:cool:

#8

Well, with those numbers, I would say start with a female mold and male bladder, or filament wind, or layup on a smart mold.
I would START with at least 4 layers 5.9oz, and see what it can do. I would add one layer of kevlar on the inside, incase something happens, or there is a wreck, the carbon won’t splinter and go into the engine! the kevlar would keep the carbon on the outside of the tube.

(some consortium project I work on occasionally: http://kubotaresearch.com/index.php?page=technology&p_id=74 )