I was curious what you guys use for laminate rollers, mainly the type of roller and what it is made out of. (ie: delrin, aluminum, wool, etc).
I guess what I am saying is I don’t want to buy rollers that don’t do a good job for my purpose or rollers that won’t get used.
I saw a bristle roller on Fiberlay.com What type of laminate would that get used on?
How do you clean your rollers after use?
Rollers:
Composite Alum (many different configurations and I’ll be eBaying some in the near future)
Nylon bristol
stanard paint rollers
I also usually have a cheap 2" paint brush in the other hand but some like to use a squeeges too!
Again Jim…my Boss and I are needing rollers for his project. ( Lamborghini Muira). Can you PM the roller sizes and costs please ?
Thanks…Vinny
I have 2 sets of PC race car windows to make this weekend and I’m subbing 9 to 5pm all next week in a friends CNC machining job training classes…but I’ll try and gather them up, take a picture and send you a price as soon as I can.
PS: For cleaning. Rule #1, do it while the resin is still in the liquid state! If not, I have used my bandsaw to clean the students hardened resin rollers between the ridges and let the roller spin…:rolleyes:
I use a thermoclean hot tank with a water base resin emulsifier or a acetone bucket (pictured post on here a few times) with the bottom gutted screen wire waste basket as a drip tray.
No doubt ! I just roll then drop them in a shallow bucket filled with Thinner or Acetone with a loose lid. Has a bent piece of wire screen at the bottom for the sludge to fall through.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Vinny
I recomend the non-aluminum ones as they will bleed ground aluminum into the glass after the rolling action polishes the inside of the barrel. It will bleed a very obvious dark gray streak into the layup.
The white nylon rollers are great.
Keep in mind that you cant just set them in a bucket of acetone after your done and walk away. You MUST clean them or else resin between the barrel and shaft will cure (even when in acetone). What your left with is a frozen roller and $15 down the tube.
If you are making small bike parts, it might be best to make rollers specifically shaped to work with the mouldings you are making.
Also, you can get the handles for the rollers and instead of using the “paddle” you can use 2 different size washers.
This is of course for wet layup of the moulds.
These washers help breakdown the CSM fibres quicker.
Takes a bit of time to get use to the weight of the washers doing the work for you and not breaking thru the fibres.
(well for me anyway, lol)