Hello (with a question)

Hi everyone,

I live in the UK as and have a passion for older vehicles but impressed with modern technology and would like to combine the two.:slight_smile:

At present I’m at least a few years away from starting this and just at the information gathering stage at the moment so I’m in no rush for responses.

What I would like to do is build an Austin 7 special; these are based on the Austin 7 built around the 1930s, and particularly in the 1950’s/1960’s amateur racers/builders created ash frames which were then skinned in Aluminium.

I have already been asking on an Austin 7 website about a particular body style I like the look ofto give you an ideas of original builds:
http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=2099944454&frmid=5&msgid=924174&cmd=show

What I would like to do is create a similar style but using composites.

My plan would be to create a frame using the following layup: cf-cf-core-cf-cf
These would be flat ‘U-tyoe’ shapes using the VARTM method. Would a mould be needed to create these or could these just be made on a flat surface?

Similar to the frames I’d look at making a 3-piece floor (left side, right side, transmission tunnel) with a layout of: cf-aramid-core-aramid-cf and use VARTM.
I put the aramid behind the cf as I believe it is known for absorbing water so the cf should give it a protective layer whilst still retaining the aramid’s ability for impact resistance. Is this correct or am I barking up the wrong tree?

For the body I would look to create a male mould and then use 2-3 layers of cf for the body, again using VARTM. Would this work or would a female mould be better?
(I believ this is a similar technique used by some kayak/small-boat builders so Ibelieve it could work)

I am moving into my own place with my fiancee in the new year and here is a garage next to the house so I should have somewhere to work:cheesy:

I would look at using the VARTM method as it seems to provide the best compromise of lightweight/strength for a technique that can be cured at room temperature, is this true or would you reccomend something else?

Sorry for the long-winded intro and question but this is something I would love to do as a DIY project so could take my time but just want to make sure that what I have said above is feasable or not?

Thanks for reading.

Cheers,
David