What are you guys using with this stuff? I cannot get it to release properly. Tried it on on a piece of glass with a wax and release. Tied it in my mold too with a wax and Fiberglass 1153. It keeps sticking to the mold and not the part.
http://german-advanced-composites.com/store/media/data/tds-gac-in-mold-coating_en.pdf
For clarity, is your laminate sticking to the “imc”? Is the imc sticking ( hard to release or fully adhered,stuck:( ).
IMC is stick to the mold.
Bummer… the imc is a urathane, one of the most tenacious adhesives out there. Wax is a toss up far as a mold release. Get zyvax “composite shield” or free coat in the 700 series. Pva is stone age stuff…
Will they spray version work? Do you still apply a wax before hand or just apply the Frekote right to the mold after polishing?
http://www.acpsales.com/Frekote-Mold-Release.html?gclid=CO3p7ruqpMcCFQataQodLsAK3w
No wax. You need to purchase some “sealer” also , 2-4 coats, then the release per manufacturer instructions.
this looks like a complicated and pricey option for one part that will be pulled once.
i will probably toss the IMC stuff and just have someone clear coat it after the part is pulled. You would think German Advance would put this information in the tech paper. I emailed them and got the you need to try it instead of this has worked for us in the past.
Don’t throw in the towel yet. Pva will work just fine for a couple of parts. It’s just a pain in the bum spraying or brushing on the pva.
Just use PVA if it’s a one off. PVA might be stone age but it’s still one of the most reliable release agents around. Applied correctly, you will not get a stick. Never ever.
Spray it on to ensure proper coverage and best surface finish.
Best release is the HP HGR5. You can order it in Germany at HP Textiles and it can be shipped easily because it is not hazardouz.
Frecote works, but fisheyeing will be a problem if you want to brush it.
It also works with wax, I have customers that use it with wax, but I failed quite often with wax.
I’m telling you. Use Frekote 770nc or any other chemical release agent, THEN use wax. But not just any wax, the type of wax people use for PVA since some wax doesn’t bead up. I can’t tell you exactly what other waxes there are but I used this stuff called dolphin wax.
The logistics behind this is outlined below.
Step one: seal your mold like you always do with frekote or mold sealer
-Seals, I’ve just always done it but seals…
Step two: put a chemical release agent on your mold like frekote 770nc or other
-The chemical release agent is what’s going to keep things from sticking, if you use a IMC or not you use this if you don’t use PVA
Step three: put a few coats of wax, make sure it’s the wax that doesn’t bead up. A good test is that if pva beads up when you SPRAY it or runs then it’s not the correct wax
-This wax helps aid and gives just enough grip to spray the IMC on the mold. You need this type of wax because if not you would be spraying on a chemical release agent and the chances of things running and beading are a lot higher.
Step four: Spray your IMC and follow instructions.
Follow these steps and you’ll be fine.
Any quality release wax that doesn’t contain silicone will work ^
I agree with Hanaldo. Spray PVA. Why go through all the gyrations, time, and expense of a polymer release agent for one part?
I would:
so when i make a mold from mfd, I spray it with Feather Fill, sand, buff and polish. Will this need a sealer on top of it too?
I have always
Is there a better process?
I have never got anything to work on glass… it always fisheyes or pulls away.
Yeah the molds are for race car parts. I pull one part, if it looks good i use it until i gets broken, then i make another (which maybe years).
Better to spray PVA.
Glass is difficult with regular releases, semi-permanents are the best for glass. That said, certain waxes will work, such as TR-108 as that gets buffed off before it dries and so doesn’t just peel off. For best results however, chemical release is the way to go.
I am still not following the sealer thing… are you guys putting a seal of some sort over the surfacing primer?
I also thought that if you put on wax over the pva you would remove the pva.
Most semi-permanent release systems will come in 2 parts; a semi-permanent tool sealer and the semi-permanent release agent itself. Easylease from EC is a combined sealer/release agent.
I don’t think the sealer is as important as the manufacturers and a lot of people on here make it sound. It will increase the number of pulls you can get from the mould before having to reapply the release agent, which is handy if you’ve got a lot of parts to make. But if you’re making 1 or 2 parts, I find the release agents work very well just on their own.
And no, wax isn’t a solvent so it won’t remove the PVA.
We wax every time before laying up but pva is a must u can wipe it on with clean rag 
good luck mate
Sealer was covered by Hanaldo pretty well. I’ll only add that if you are going to use PVA you don’t need sealer or top coat.
If you want to follow my advice from my previous post, I have listed it the same way I have done it for years. I’ve added some info in red.
I would: