Hi guys, yesterday i applied FREKOTE 770-NC to my shiny mold surface but after applying it the mold surface is very dull and no longer shiny, is this normal? what am i doing wrong?
thanks
Hi guys, yesterday i applied FREKOTE 770-NC to my shiny mold surface but after applying it the mold surface is very dull and no longer shiny, is this normal? what am i doing wrong?
thanks
has anybody come across this issue? any help will be greatly appreciated.
Probably over-applying. Apply with a damp cloth, and keep polishing until it is all gone.
Wipe it on and immediately wipe it off…at least that is what I do.
With the sealer I wipe it on, wait until the edges start to evaporate, and then wipe it off.
Notice how I apply it in the first few seconds of this video:
https://vimeo.com/35648020
Wow, thanks a lot for, so the other cloth is dry?
Correct. I use a paper towel to wipe it on followed by a clean dry cotton cloth.
Wow! I didn’t realize that much work went into building a sail plane.
Very nice.
But what is the exact producer instruction of frekote 770nc?
Why to use FMS sealer? advantages?
Sealer fills the porosity of the mould. Most moulds are slightly porous, at least composite, aluminium and glass (sheet) moulds are. When I was at a training by Zyvax, they considered their sealer the “insurance policy” for release.
Before I even knew about composites, I once had a part (boat) stuck in a mould severely, using only Frekote. I wished I knew about sealer then.
Ok will take that into account, but can someone tell me how to use 770nc i see it dries fast and leave some dull surface, how many layers? should i polish each layer? whats the breake time between putting each layer? etc
Apply it with a paper towel or cloth then as soon as you see it haze use a clean paper towel or cloth to buff the surface. The longer you let it sit the harder it becomes to buff. Make sure you have good lighting and look at the surface from all different angles to make sure you didn’t miss a spot. If you have a large tool use multiple rags to buff other wise you will find that you are just smearing and not buffing. Like one to do initial buff, second to buff, and third to buff any small spots you might have missed. That is if your mold is a class A finish and you want your released surface to also be class A.
For number of coats… 4 with buffing in between. You can do the tape test that Hojo taught me to tell if your surface is coated. Take a piece of masking tape and put it on a release coated area, it shouldn’t stick at all when compaired to a non released surface. Besure to re coat the small area you tested to ensure you didn’t remove any with the tape.
Hope this helps.
Thanks Rotorage, so between each coat there is really short break? I mean putting 1st layer then instantly buffing and same for next three coats? am I right?
How about starting at the datasheet:
Thx for the link, but… there is absolutely nothing about buffing/polishing?! it is only said to brush/spray 3 coats with 10 minutes break each and final coat with 15 minutes break…
nobody use this?
I follow the directions just like they say except that I wipe the release off immediately after I wipe it on.
You wont remove it by doing such thing?
its very strange that the producer didnt mention to buff it…