Just done my first mould from a repaired gear stick surround, came out ok.
iam going to do a wet layup and vac it down. what would be the best way of laying up so i get nice corners and no bridging.?
looks nice.
For bridging (breaching), as you lay in the fabric, you might want to try a SMALL amount of tacky spray like 3M’s Super 77. When vac bagging it, make sure you have tons of extra bagging to push into the corners along with the composite, and top layers (peel ply, breather, ect) Pull a SLOW vac…and shove it all int eh corner with your fingers/dull tool. You can also pull the vac, and release it, and pull again several times to nest everything.
To get an idea of bagging needs, pre-bag the mold to see how to work out how much you need. it’s all technique!
thank for your top tipps, should i use one peice of carbon or cut the corners for a better fit?
Mold release that mold at least 10 times with wax!! Otherwise kiss your mold goodbye when the part becomes permanently stuck.
Just some friendly advice 
To prevent bridging on that part I would:
spray down a 20 mil thick layer of polyester gel coat ( marine clear, or colored gel coat).
Start laying your carbon fiber from the center of the mold working your way to the outside edges. Take your time because this step will make or brake the part finish.
Bridging won’t occur on the first layer of carbon if you do this.
To prevent briding on the other layers cut the carbon fiber or fiberglass to go around the corners and lay flat to the mold.
Do this for as many layers you want or need.
Then peel ply or perforated release ply. Then breather cloth, then vacuum bag it.
That depends on how the carbon does or does not want to lay flat against the mold in the corners. sometimes cutting it in a corner helps and other times it may not be necessary to cut.
good tips thanks , what is the benefit on using clear gelcoat?
It stops the material from being pushed right against the surface of the part.
It will keep the finish from being riddled with tiny pits…which is my problem when I vac-bag without clear first.
this is the method i would use for such a part… measure the side walls, and make a template. take one layer of carbon, lay it on some plastic , and spray it with spray adhesive, and on this stick another layer of fabric, carbon or glass, preferably plain weave. then you can cut this with scissors without fraying. take this and stick it using either the gelcoat’s tackiness, or spray ahdesive, around the side walls. then add a layer of carbon for the bottom, overlaying the side walls. its impossible to lay up such a shape with one layer of carbon without a real mess in the weave. continue by wetting out the fabrics, and adding more layers of glass or carbon, then vacuum bag it, using many small parts of peel ply or perforated nylon. if it comes out looking like an alien vomited on it, dont give up. these things need experience. for a first mold, i’d say its excellent!
1st part came out ok .well happy
that thing looks excellent. how come it’s not shiny though? your mold was shiny enough… did you sand it?
i wanted a satin finish it is a gearstick souround so i use red scotchbright red lightly
Good job on the mold and finished product. After scuffing, have it clear coated and it will look great!
wont the air holes be worse if they are under a layer of clear gelcoat? I would think it would be better on the surface so you can fill them with some clear and sand and buff.