Demold >> sand #120,240 >> Primer >> sand #400,600 >> Clear coat >> sand #1000,1500 >> Polishing
What do you think following above ?? share your idea
and what kind of material you use for Primer. I’ve seen many type such as 1K, 2K(PU), epoxy, …
Welcome to the forum firstly.
Your question is very open ended in that you have not mentioned the item requirements. I never use primers personally because my parts show the Carbon weave.
From what you’ve stated, your sanding indicates your mold surface is in very bad condition. Thus requiring a lot of post molded work to deal with.
Perhaps you can clarify?
I start sanding with 120 grid because I need to open all of surface area before spraying Primer.
Please kindly help advice, I’m quite newbie in composite world.
are your parts being clear coated to show the weave? or painted with a color?
I have both,
-
Being painted in fiberglass
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Being clear coated to show the weave in carbon fiber
2K primer also have transparent color types.
Please advice.
yes, I have used clear primers before, but I think they are a waste of time. Clear coat already bonds to carbon/epoxy well. Basically what you suggest is correct. I usually sand the raw surface with 320 only to scuff the surface. Spray a couple coats clear. sand starting at 1000 (assuming low texture), polish using a buffer
I apply primer coat at the first layer for sealing pin holes…
Hi,
When I was painting my race bike fairing I usually sanded them with #400 ant then apply 2K primer
When I make “show weave” carbon parts I think a nice and shiny mold surface+clear coat is the best way to save time and obtain nice result. I recognize compatible epoxy clear coat can be a bit expensive. But only a quick polishing job is necessairy to clear the surface of some rest of release agent marks.
Here is an example of a cupple of straight out of the mould carbon parts:
Hi,
When I was painting my race bike fairing I usually sanded them with #400 ant then apply 2K primer
When I make “show weave” carbon parts I think a nice and shiny mold surface+clear coat is the best way to save time and obtain nice result. I recognize compatible epoxy clear coat can be a bit expensive. But only a quick polishing job is necessairy to clear the surface of some rest of release agent marks.
Here is an example of a cupple of straight out of the mould carbon parts:
Sounds like allot of work to me. I demold, sand with 220 - 400, clear.
#120 is quite a harsh grade and will leave some deep scratches to polish out later. Starting with a finer grade should save some time.