Final epoxy coat for a clear surface

General Composites Discussions Composites Talk
#1

My second question.

One side of my product is more or less “leave it an forget it”. The back side and is less important cosmetically and I don’t want to spend lots of time there.

I still would like this surface to be as nice as possible (for the people that do turn things over and love to inspect).

I have struggled to find an epoxy that I can paint on with a brush (a very thin layer) and have it cure smooth and clear.

Way way back when building sailboards and surfboards we used a polyester finish coat that leveled out and cured clear and with no bubbles.

With all the epoxies I have tried thus far I can get close, but small imperfections and bubbles prevent it from looking as good as a polyester gloss resin. Most people are fine with it but I am not.

The tops are done with an automotive clear and I have good results there.

Any suggestions for the underside?

To better explain, here is my product:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16466488@N05/3831913164/in/set-72157622054657260/

Thanks

#2

PER to epoxy resin parts the PER doesn’t stick very well…better off PUR clear coating then.

#3

I’ve never tried to use PUR over Epoxy. I have been looking for an Epoxy that will be as good as Polyester gloss is though…maybe it doesn’t exist?

I’m going to try one of the table top epoxy resins with a heat gun for an experiment.

I could use Auto Clear over it but the steps in my process make it difficult to do it that way for the bottom.

Oh well I’ll keep experimenting.

Thanks

#4

butane torch, turned on low, keep flame 8 inches away from epoxy coat… it will pop all the bubbles and leave a smooth pourous free surface.

But in of itself no epoxy is good enough to not paint over or clear paint over. UV light will turn any epoxy brown with time, even the ones that have uv inhibitors added.

Wet sand your cured epoxy surface with 320 wet paper, then PUR clear coat or 2K clear coat. It will look great, or at least as good as the cf work is.

#5

Am I correct in assuming this is done while the epoxy is still wet?

Cheers

#6

This is where I originally got the idea.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ec38s5R7lHs

#7

“Am I correct in assuming this is done while the epoxy is still wet?”

Yes, do it a few minutes after applying the epoxy.

#8

Yep, those are all indoor projects that probably have minimal sun exposure. The type of epoxy he is using in the video is called Table Top Epoxy and many companies make it. I would still use PUR or spray clear coat over the epoxy to fully protect it from the sun. PUR is probably much more durable for table tops and furniture than clear coat will be.

all table top ( sometimes called Bar Top ) epoxy is glossy.

I actually have had a project in mind… carbon fiber dinner table top… laying cf over a wood top. I’ll probably use Werksbergs suggestion when I do it and use PUR to protect the finish.

#9

Part of the reason I wrote the original thread was to find out among other things…what PUR is?

I am assuming PER is Poly Ester Resin
and that PUR is Poly Urethane Resin

….correct me if I am wrong.

assuming I am correct, what brands and specific PUR do you recommend?

Thanks

#10

I believe the PUR Werksberg was refering to is like MinWax Polyurethane… It comes in cans you apply with a brush or aerosol spray cans at the hardware store. I do not know how well the brushed on stuff levels out or not… ask Werksberg :slight_smile: