Difficulty getting my logo on a carbon board

I am getting ready to sell some carbon skimboards. I have the process down and I’m getting perfect mold surface no checkering or pinholes on the bottom rockertable side. I did’nt figure that the hardest part of the whole thing would be getting my logo on the bottom inside the board so it can’t wash off. I’ve been researching snowboard processes and found isosport clear nylon you can print on the inside and have it as a outside skin. I have a sample that I infused today and inside was left with bubbles or voids even though outside the sample just mold and carbon was perfect. This was the process I was banking on but now I’m thinking maybe sticker and clear over it. I don’t know much about the in’s and outs of this process. From what I hear you need a certain kind of sticker to bond with clear coat? I don’t have a paint booth but I have seen other methods urethane dipping tank or conveyor belt through it. Maybe just take it out to someone that knows what they are doing? I would love some thoughts tips.

Have a bit of a search around here, I can definitely remember a bit of a lengthy thread on the subject of adding logos to a part… lots of different methods.

One I am going to try myself is laminating rice paper into the surface of a part. Not sure whether the rice paper can be printed onto using a regular inkjet or laser, perhaps using a rubber stamp to make your mark? My test was just going to be writing on the paper with paint pen, but I’ll try a rubber stamp now that I’ve thought of it!

FRP Accessories in India make printed glass veils. That could be your solution.

I wonder if it would be possible to get some plain glass veil and silk screen print a logo on it?

Should be possible.

Can you just use a frisked and paint the mold. The paint will transfer to the part.

Rice paper turns clear and the inks almost do as well since you can’t print white for the color to go on. I did try digital screen printer with UV cure inks on fiberglass veil (pictured below) but they weren’t able to get as much detail as I would like. The sample on the bottom shows the fiberglass print, the one above shows vinyl sticker that I put directly on the carbon with fiberglass veil over half because I was able to peel up the vinyl. I lost vacuum halfway through the test infusion that is why there are so many pinholes but it was good enough to get the picture. I talked to Steve at printedveil.com who carries the FRP accessories and he is going to send me some samples to play with to see if their stuff will work for me. Wyoworks I like the frisk Idea what kind of paint could I use? Do you think I could clear coat and frisk at the same time? I would be worried about smearing the paint and clear as I’m doing my layup. Would It be easier to put a decal on and then clear coat with UV self leveling epoxy?

Hello friends:

I am planning on use this paper, I have seen on the web that it is often used for coffee mugs or plates decoration, what do you thing about? There is a clear paper as well as a white. I am planning on using before of applying clear coat.

http://www.amazon.com/Decal-Waterslide-Inkjet-Sheets-package/dp/B009XU8JVK/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1383144495&sr=8-13&keywords=water+decal+slide+paper

Thanks.

Antonio

Good old vinyl cut sticker from a signwriter and a couple of coats of Durepox. Your logo will have some depth and half the pinholes will be buried, plus UV protection.

Has anybody use heat color transfer paper over CF? I am planning on doing some trial, but I guess I will need to paint some área on White color as a preparation.

Vinyl decals work great like said before. Just scuff the whole area to be cleared over, clean any dust off them apply the decal. Add clear, sand and buff. You can also get the negative of your logo made with vinyl and paint your logo on and peal the vinyl off like a stencil.

Rice paper can be used. A trick we do when using it will airbrush work is to print your image out. (yes a home printer will work) Then take white paint and spray the back a bit of the image. This helps it pop and doesnt let it do transparent. But if you wont want white showing where your logo isnt printed them youll have to cut it out afterwords and that can be time consuming.

You could also screen print the logos on to the board. I’ve done some tests with epoxy ink and that stuff is super tough and durable once it fully cures. I printed on some glossy epoxy and it worked great. Maybe since it’s epoxy on epoxy it adheres so well? The only pain is that you have to screen print… lol

It’s one more set of tools and skills to learn/use.

Bringing this back from the dead.

So I just was poking around the internet and saw some brand with a logo on the clear. It looked to be transparent since you could still see the weave pattern but it was extremely light and hard to see. Does anyone know how this was done? Maybe they laser cut rice paper or veil potentially to give it a different reflection?

Have a look on Talk Composites, there’s a whole thread about it. Can’t remember specifically what was used, but it was something like rice paper.

Yes you can use an inkjet, it’s a bit tricky flattening the rice paper, but it works.

waterslide transfer technique works well

What about rice paper and a stencil and paint?