How do you guys sand concave surfaces ? What type of tools are used ?
Thank you
The hand trumps all in delicate small items like you’ve shown. Along with sandpaper of course.
: )
So just sand and hand huh.
3M makes a soft block that is good for sanding concave surfaces. General rule is, never use your hands or fingers unless you have no other choice.
Ummm, Howard, that sanding block is larger than the largest area he’s wanting to dig into I believe.
Hojo is right about using a foam interface pad when you can get it and the paper to conform. Although for what you’ve pictured, I can see the use of a curved thumb quite a bit.
haha well that is valid… Might be stuck with his fingers on those.
The parts are just examples.I was just researching about the type of Technics and tools for sanding anything that is not flat. What kind of power sanders do you guys run?At what grit do you stop using the power tools and start doing it by hand?
Thanks
If it was possible I’d always use power tools on everything but tight radius curves.
The easiest and cheapest way to sand concave parts, IMO, is to just use a kitchen sponge wrapped in whatever wet sand paper you want. Harbor freight tools sells an air powered sander with a 2 (or was it 3?) inch head for 30-40 bucks; it’ll probably fit inside parts as small as your examples. The only tricky part is sourcing 2 (or 3…) inch foam backing pads and the appropriate grit sand paper. I think I bought them from www.woodworkingshop.com. their search function isn’t working for me right now for whatever reason so I can’t pull up a direct link to the product.
power tools are faster, but they are not better than hand sanding with the proper board sanders.
Is their a specific web site that you guys use to get the sanding equipment.Can you guy post some pics ?thank you
these are nice sanding blocks to get. i would also recommend buying some wooden sanding boards too.
Nice blocks.
I like the Mirka Ceros and Deros sanders: http://www.slimmerschuren.nl/mirka-schuurmachines/mirka-schuurmachines-elektrisch
They also have a 3" diameter version, which could be useful in concave sections. For the rest it is mainly elbow grease.
this is cool ^^ http://www.slimmerschuren.nl/mirka-schuurmachines/mirka-schuurmachines-elektrisch/controlepoeder.html
I heard never power sand above 220 grit .Is this right?
It is just what you are comfortable with. No specific rules for that. It also totally depends on what you are doing.
Actually, when fairing a boat hull, you first start hand sanding (grit 40) and finish with power tools…
I use an Airfile with 36# papers when roughing in a new form/shape just like roughing auto body work. As stated before, it all depends on the finesse required and the level of perfection to get the desired results needed.
But hand sanding is almost ALWAYS the final finesse step for inspection and feel.
I was recently comfronted to a similar task, only larger being a boat hull plug with concave double curvature surfaces in its bow áreas, and we did it by sanding it in 4 directions with flexible sanding blocks made with eva foam material wich you can find in any sports shop because it is often used as a cushioning material, so people can lay in the floor, we sanded every suraface by hand with long fluid movements in four directions: 0,90,+45 & -45 degrees, every sanding done in the four directions we called it a “sanding coat” we got completely fair surfaces, needless to say you have to apply some sandable material (duratec or similar with a spray gun) in between sanding coats
check those:
Jigger, how are those flexi-cat sanders? thinking next purchase for me.
(leaning against wall in last pic…)thanks looks great
Sometimes I’ll scuff up a piece with a wire-wheel/cup brush on a drill…haven’t had any de-lamination issues yet. There are several styles that I have used…
