CF longboard

aramid honeycomb core, sp ampreg 21 resin, 950 grams (w/o paint and grip) 100 cm long, 24 wide, 10 mm thick. Wet layup, vacuum bagged.

I love carbon fibre :smiley:

Very Nice!

Nice job! I like the design idea.

What is the red covering the core…paste? Are you using drop-through trucks on that?

polyurethane. no drop troughs, that’s for the next one.

Nice concave on it, not too much. I must admit that I prefer flat parallel sides as your is, I am not a lover of tapers as when you go to foot-brake there is always the chance of feeding your foot into the rear wheels and launching yourself.

I have seen a few injuries including broken arms from that happening, not a good thing at any event or gathering.

Wow real cool :). How much can it flex?

If I stand on it a bit more than when Susho stands on it. Haha! :slight_smile:

Well done, Johannes.

I don’t foot brake near my wheels :wink: I stepped on them a few times though…

with me it flexes about 1cm, without postcure, all 64 kg of me :wink:

Very nice susho! Principally I’m here, learning to fabric composites to make longboard, for the time begin I will make with PVC foam core and infuison, above all because I like longboard with some flex, and honeycomb isn’t a good option if your longboard will have some flex, not?
Anyway, probably I will make some with AL honeycomb, and one of bigger cuestion that I have, is how assure the union between honeycomb and fabric cloth.
Did you use some special adhesive film or special resin?

Grethings and happy new year!

I didn’t use anything for the bonding, just a resin rich laminate.
The honeycomb was an aramid paper one. I guess aluminium can’t withstand much dynamic loads, and it needs electric separation from carbon fibre.

If I had used prepregs I would have used a glue film, basically adding more resin to the laminate.
PVC is a good choice, but if you could get your hands on SAN like corecell it would be better. A bit tougher, and more capable on the dynamic loads of a flexy board. I used it in one with wood/glass skins which could flex quite a bit.

Hi Susho, as far as I know, the dielectric separation is not necessary, only if there prosivilidad of galvanic corrosion is recommended, eg to marine applications for a longboard I think it would not be necessary.

And I read about SAN but I could not buy and hasn’t properties far superior to cross-linked PVC foam, but to dynamic loads, SAN seems always much better. But is it really necessary for a longboard this dynamic loads properties so higher?

By the way, I already did my first longboard, but unfortunately the mold ceded … and the center has been a little deform, however I ride him and I will help draw conclusions …

Greetings!

Hi Susho
The board look beautiful …no it’s very beautiful and I like the shape of it
Can you tell how did you insert the graphic on the board?
And what kind of material is the graphic made ?
If you use 2 time 2 layer of carbon and honeycomb paper inside how many layer of this paper did you use and how heavy was each layer of this paper?
Thanks

The paper is in a honeycomb structure. Also known as nomex. 1 layer, 36kg/m3 I remember. The graphic is UD carbon fibre, in different orientations. 50 gram/m3.

With the weather here, it is almost a marine application, haha :frowning:

Very nice and very attractive to use the UD carbon for making the graphic black on black
Good idea I will remember. :))

Hello Suso, seeing the finish so perfect that you got in the drawing done with UD, I wonder how you did it, because recently I’ve tried to put UD reinforcements in a part and it was impossible to avoid loose threads. Also you have a very precise cut, maybe do you use no shift carbon fiber ?

Regards and thanks

Pretty sweet. I just made a short board the other day, first one… i’ll post a pick when i get back in the garage.

I’m curious to what your ply schedule is? what resin?

Nice work. Looks sick with the compass on it

How many plies of what density did you use?

2 faces of 220 gram/m2, under those some 300 gram/m2 unidirectional cf. Torsional stability could be improved a bit though.

How did you engineer the polyurethane side walls? What kind of polyurethane did you use? How did you finish the side walls…sanding? Grinding? Thanks.