I have a 6’x8’ cargo trailer I want to enclose i with fiberglass.
I plan to make three 6x8 sides and a top with a flange.
I have 5 gals of resin and 600 csm (two layers of 300 with a flow medium in between). I may have to tape bag together to make it that big. I am planning to use shade cloth as a flow medium so vacuum with reach all.
I have a 3/4 hp 11 cfm pump.
any input will is welcome.
Jax
That’s great.
I don’t see any questions, so I guess you just wanted to share your project.
Sounds like a simple part, just big. Yes, you will have to tape bagging together to get it large enough, though there are extra large bagging films available, just depends on if you can find, and the costs.
You say you plan on using shade cloth as the bagging film? Not sure what that IS, but make sure there are NO pinholes in the…er…film cloth???
Mold building will take awhile, but should be easy…5 sides, plus a good sided flange.
the shade cloth is for flow;Flow media – this is an open structured coarse media used initially as a vacuum pathway so air will evacuate.
I am planning to use shower curtain as bag…
I am making mold with 4x8 osb covered with a white board used in bathrooms
I was just looking for any tips with some one that has done a larger project.I respect wise words.
plan to make one mold 6x8 with different interchangeable flanges to make top and sides.The top with have a lip to overhang to stop moisture.
The front will be a wedge shape made over a 2"x2" frame.The wedge shape from with be for airflow and make trailer longer and from tire of motorcycle will fit into nose.
Can you post any pictures or sketches, and the things you like to know?
Make sure you have enough resin, a CSM300 with flow medium will take quite a bit. Also as this is your flow medium, why bother with shade cloth.
Also using shower curtain as a bag? I am not really fond of “ghetto style” materials, as the results can be surprising to say at the least.
Here is my simple design for how to infuse. Make sure your flanges are niiice and big 
Inject from the middle inlet, wait till the resin hits the side inlets, clamp, and inject from the sides. Might have to design the flow media if you use that to make sure one area doesn’t flow too fast, and racetrack. Simple design I think, so it should go well. If you want, add small holes on the bottom of the mold with air fittings, sealed with tape. Then you can attach a compressor, and pop off the part.
ps: the mold should have a draft angle!!! else it will SUCK trying to get straight walled part out of a mold!!!
Another option is to infuse from the bottom sides, where racetracking is very likely. Vent in the middle. This will have the bottom covered.
The sides can be done with the same feed lines, and runners added in the corners (again, racetracking prevention). Stop the runners some 20-40 cm below the flange. (depending on permeability. More permeable, more distance).
I am not going to try infusion on this.It may be beyond my pay grade right now.I am going wet it out and then vacuum bag it.
I am going to build each 8’x6’ panel one at the time.The nose and the top will need minor changes to mold.The side will be the same and the easiest , I will start with them. This way I can make I can make changes as I go from anything gleaned.I plan to attach these to metal frame w and laminated seams that is already on trailer.It now has a rotten plywood top.
Thanx again
So you are making each panel and joining it with a metal frame? Then you don’t need a mold persay, just a flat panel to make the composite panels, and then cut to size. Right?
Figured this was almost the idea what you wanted to do: http://www.macgregorsailboats.com/images/sprayhull_small.jpg
pretty much, but applying by hand with brush and roller not sprayed on with top and front a little different as it is a wedge nose with a flat blunt tip where I can mount window ac and a generator mounted on A frame so I can camp in it also