APR and J's Racing (Voltex) Wing Endplates

General Composites Discussions Showcase
#1

I’m pretty new around. Started experimenting with Carbon Fiber here a little while back. First ordered some 2x2 Twill 6k and for some reason chose the QUICKEST epoxy every. Resin Research Kwik Kick.

I went with 2 Layer CF, 1 layer 1/16in Balsa from local hobby shop, 2 layers CF. First mistake is I cut the balsa to size, but made the carbon fiber a huge rectangle. Ya you can’t tell where 1/16 of anything is 2 layers down. I compressed the wet layup between 2 big pieces of glass and used johnson wax unbuffed (ya I know). Here are some pics of results.

By the time you see this step. I’ve now used same sides CF and Balsa. BTW I only found 6in wide balsa, so I use superglue to attach using tips from model builders. Stuff is real easy to cut with razor.

So I needed to clear it and I wasn’t willing to use a standard clear. Bought some expensive 2k spray paint, which worked well enough, but cost is terrible.

And yes that’s speaker wire. In kitchen.

This is a clear that isn’t thick enough to cover my pin holes.

Sent to other end plates to be professionally cleared. Can’t wait to post up those pictures. My next project is a teaser here…

#2

Looks good! A need to make myself a pair! I have the EVO spec endplates on mine and I hate them.
I would definitely cut your fabric out to size next time. The painters tape works well but you’d never want that in your part. I haven’t tried it, but I have heard that a good method of preventing your edges from fraying is to use some spray adhesive to glue together 2 layers (1 in 0/90 and 1 in 45/45). You could also glue a layer of veil on before you cut it out.
Just some things to think about next time you’re cutting your fabric to size.

#3

I bought some Fray Check from a fabric store. Works like superglue except not so stiff once dried. And your right, I’m going to use my rotary cutter to cut my fabric to size and use Fray check to help with fray issue. I will let everyone know how it works on next build thread. I need to go by a local place to see if they have some veil.

#4

If you put down just one ply first keep it real warm squeegee well and cure to green stage you can get perfect mirror finish no pin holes no clear coating, I can.

#5

looking good :slight_smile:

#6

So let me get this straight in my head. Put down first layer and let it cure to green stage before applying additional layers and core? Is the benefit here that when you place more than one layer it can mess up the bottom layer. Sounds logical. For squeegee I’m currently using a yellow bondo spreader squeegee. I found that if I worked surface too long I pulled up hairs somehow, like a hair ball of carbon that I would have to remove. Didn’t affect the bottom finish, but bothered me so I work surface much less now. Considered a roller, but don’t see anyone else using them.

#7

The yellow one is too stiff , I use the brown ones round off the bottom corners and remove big chunks from the top corners to make it more flexible