Adtech tool cast resin… would I need to use fiberglass cloth or carbon fiber cloth to reinforce the tool if using this product?
What thickness should the mold be made to? I would be pulling a part that is 1mm thickness from the tool.
Anyone know what the prices are for some of these products: surface coat, tool cast, aluminum filler?
Yes, you have to use FG / CG reinforcements to strengthen the mold or otherwise the mold will break very easy…resin by itself is fragile.
The tooling clay works like this:
Apply surface coat to the plug.
Apply two layers of glass w/epoxy. Let cure.
Fix any voids.
Apply tooling dough 1/4" thick.
Back with two more layers of glass.
Demold in 24 hours.
Let it sit for 3 days.
Then its ready to go.
Ok so it works just like the Polymer Products Tooling Dough I have used in the past.
http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-RIGID-MOLD-MAKING-CLAY-TOOLING-COMPOUND-1-GALLON_W0QQitemZ270086551847QQihZ017QQcategoryZ28104QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
…fix any voids… 
you get those too huh.
When I wet layup epoxy on glass I tend to get bubbles here and there. Your supposed to vacuum bag epoxy when using it in a mold layup. I dont build my plugs leak proof enough for that. So, I dont mind fixing a few spots.
It is pretty much the same thing as what your used to. I like the “yellow and blue make green feature”. Leaves little to question if its mixed well or not.
epoxy dye can also be added to epoxy tooling dough. Kneed it up well enough and the color will become uniform with no swirls 
Thanks for the input guys:cool:
Thought I’d resurrect this Adtech thread because I had a question about the their ES-201 epoxy surface coat.
I’m thinking of using it on my large 9 foot long plug.
If I apply the surface coat and let it cure for 24 hours will I need to clean the surface before applying my fiberglass reinforcements and laminating resin?
Also, How accurate is that 15 minute work time? I plan on working with small batches to keep the exothermic reaction to a minimum while mixing.
I had a real bad experience working with the fibreglast 1099 epoxy surface coat, even small batches gelled in under 10 minutes and it had a waxy surface after curing that needed to be cleaned off before I could laminate over it.
you wouldnt want to wait 24 hours unless the surface coat has a 24+ hour window which I doubt it does. You want to get a chemical bond, not secondary. So more than likely, without reading the TDS, you would apply the surface coat, then wait till it tacks(probably 30/45 min or so depending on the speed hardener)to the point of leaving a fingerprint without pulling any up. you should immediatly laminate at this point.
That’s what I was worried about…
My plug is over 9 feet long, I work by myself and I don’t know if I can get the entire plug coated in under 45 minutes. And I’m not even sure when that “tact free” state will occur with this particular surface coat. That’s why i was wondering if anyone had experience working with it.
Ideally I would laminate my first layer of glass right as the surface coat reaches it’s tact free state, I just don’t know if I have the work time to pull it off.
Does anyone have any recommendations on an epoxy surface coat that would reach a tact free state in about an hour?
I think I could make that work.
there are lots of surface coats that have longer pot lifes. check out PTM&W(purcahse direct), or Huntsman(can purchase from northern composites, www.nfgsales.com).