78 Firebird Fender Wells

General Composites Discussions Showcase
#1

I am currently in the process of rebuilding a 78’ Firebird Formula. In the process I decided to do some Composite work to suppliment the rebuild. Happily, my buddies started asking me if they could buy some of the parts I’ve been making.

In any case, here is my first attempt at using Duratec primer with the high gloss additive. This was done last night. If you guys see anything I could have improved on, let me know, I would be VERY interested to hear some expert opinions. Feel free to be blunt, I’ve been in the Army for 8 years, you’re not going to hurt my feelings.

Here’s the pics.

This is what the other well looks like (for a comparison with what I started with)

#2

looks good. What grit sand paper did you use for wet sanding?

#3

That doesn’t look to be wet sanded yet, ans you can see some orange peel. That’s just how it comes out when sprayed properly.

Looks good overall. But are you trying to duplicate the top or the bottom of the fender wells? Are these parts going to be your molds? Or are you going to make molds off of them, and then make the final parts? Just some stuff to think about.

#4

I thought about that when I started working on this part. Basically, I haven’t ever used Duratec primer before so I thought I would do a metal part (the REAL project is a shaker for a Trans Am, which is 'glass itself) just to be safe.

The fender wells are stamped sheet metal, so they look the same from the bottom or top. But I guess the answer would be top:)

I was going to make a mold from the part. This would allow me to sell the original wells once I get a good working mold.

I’m not sure where you were going with your question. Is there something I should be thinking about in this project? Something maybe I haven’t considered because of my “noobie-ness”?

BTW: Due to my absolutely never-before-used-an-auto-style-spray-gun situation, I am VERY elated to see that you gave me the compliment of stating that the wells were sprayed properly. I’m serious, that was my first ever spray!!

Thanks!!

#5

for your first try and even a seasoned person that is a good spray job! Looks like you are on your way to a good product

#6

1.Even though the fenders are the same shape on both sides, it makes a difference in the end. Seems like you have primered the side not facing the tire. You’ll then make a mold which will be shiny on the inside, which will produce a part that is again shiny on the outside. So the inside of you finished tire well will not be smooth and shiny. It will have the texture of woven fabric, and won’t look as nice without filling and sanding. The nice side won’t even be seen.
2. Good idea for selling after the molds are completed. No need for them later. In case you plan on making quite a few sets of these, you could make a really thick part in the new mold, which will have the same shape as the original metal fender. That way you could make a new mold if ever needed.
3. Just trying to help reveal possible future issues. Gotta think about these things before molding stuff and realizing something’s wrong. Could be a lot of wasted material if you later realize you wanted the other side instead to be shiny!

#7

Don’t forget this is a 1978 Firebird, so people will be looking more at the top of the fender well, as you can actually see a majority of it when the hood is open (not like a newer compact). I do understand your point though and have taken your words into CAREFULL consideration.

Many thanks for the helpfull advice and the “check-ride” to make sure I was on the right track. Not too many places you find people willing to lend a helping hand without some sort of compensation.

YOU ROCK!!:smiley:

PS, here’s the engine bay of a 78 Firebird

or at least the best pic I could find on short notice

#8

My only suggestion…

Smooth out as much as possible on the fender wells. Your shiney side is the correct side. I dont know of any judge who is going to look in a fender well to see how smooth it is. Besides it can easily be filled and painted. I doubt youll be making any carbon inner fender wells…

My suggestion to smooth out the fender wells is due to the complexity of the mold. Remember the more angles you have the more complicated it will be to get the part out of it.

Remove any unneccesary lumps and bumps if possible (with bondo…on your “plug” ) and refinish it with the primer and then wet sand and buff.

The simpler you make these the better. Youll get more parts out of the molds and it will be easier for the purchaser to “smooth” the engine bay.

#9

I thought Duratec was similar to the high build primer I use. As in, it drys dull, but can be polished to a mirror finish.

Didnt realize you need an additive to get it to shine.

#10

Maybe it can without the additive, but with the 1 to 1 mixture it called for, it came out REALLY nicely from my 2.5mm needle.

I probably benefited from beginner’s luck, but I sure hope not!!:eek:

#11

Very nice. Word of caution, if you decide to shoot clear or base coats in the future, you will have to adjust your technique. Shooting high build, hi viscosity materials is completely different than shooting clears and bases.

#12

Dont dare shoot automotive paint out of a 2.0 or higher needle. Youll cry when it immediately runs…

Clear and base coats are out of a 1.4-1.5 needle and good primer is out of a 1.8 needle.

#13

No plans to get into finish painting yet.

I have too much on my plate allready!!