I tried infusing my first part (other than flat sheet) today and used a small amount of Super77 to hold everything in place in the mold including the carbon. when I pulled the part from the mold it still had some super77 on the good side of the part leaving a rough texture. What do I use to get this off or did I just use too much?
BTW the resin I am using is Per infusion resin for fiberglasssupply.com
Thanks
You can try using less. I have never had any luck using super77 directly on the surface of the mold.
I heard it all depends on the type of wax/release on the mold as well.
NEVER use super 77 on the surface. It does not dissolve. You will always have it there when you pop the part
If you are using PER, then use Infusion spray glue and only lightly. Richmond amoung many others have it.
yeah I dont like the 3m too much…I can see it thru my gelcoat and my first layer of cloth sometimes…pisses me off
The infuzen works well…spendy but it works.
So whats the best thing if your using Epoxy + Infusion.
I want to get one thing straight also, if i spray 1 layer of UV gel coat, tac up. put carbon, etc. then infuse with Epoxy. Will the 2 stick!?
yes it will stick, but the gel coat will shrink still but the epoxy really wont
So is this what everyone does thou? UV clear gel coat, sprayed on. then tac, then carbon, then epoxy resin… which i would guess is also clear…
i used to but don’t do it anymore because of all the surface it gets due to shrinking and if you look at the part a week after you popped it you can see where the gelcoat shrinks about 1/20 of an inch off the part. Hope this makes sense
There are Epoxy face coats (gel coating) available but you can’t spray any Epoxy resins as the hardeners fumes are lethal!
Well ive just had a close look at some of my parts under very bright light and there is no cloudyness no sign of the 3M and im very critical of my work. I spray the Duratec let it set then start the lay up using 3M.
The problem with letting the gel tac up and then laying in the carbon, more so on complicated molds its going to stick and ruin the weave if it touches in any place where your not ready. With the 3M you can spray it where you want it and then move on untill the molds laid up. I would stress you only need a small amount to enable the carbon to stick, just dont go mad with it.
I can see the gel tac method working well on uncomplicated parts though. I suppose each to there own.
hybrid whats this infuzen then, googled it but nothing, have you a link.
Baz
so then you use epoxy resin all the time? which clear do you use?
Some of my parts are just Duratec clear and a buff once trimmed. Some of them i clear coat using polyurethane , it`s called Bondaseal Clear, it has many uses but what first made me give it a go was its toughness, it can be used to coat timber floors in heavy traffic areas and be walked on after 8 hours. It fully cures in 24 hours. It has according to the manufacturer first class bonding to glassfiber. I also use it on my plugs. I thin it with their thinner and shoot it from my gun it sprays well dead smooth and no need to finish anymore. In fact the cello maker in the US uses polyurethane as a final coat. Oh and it doesnt yellow. It can be overcoated within 15 to 30 mins depending on temperature. You will have a similar product in the States.
My problem with using automotive clears was the bonding capabilities, i was not happy with them, and really did not want to go the body suit, airfed mask route using deadly 2K paints.
Baz
Thanks Werksberg, no good to me then.
Baz
http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/CFS_Catalogue__Bonda_Seal_Clear_271.html
Baz, where can i find this in the US? =(
does that infuzene dissolve? supper 77 can leach into the surface of my product and if that other product dissolves that would be best!
Yes, it does and it was formulated for infusion use too. The styrene in PER dissolves it.
that is what I wanted to here! I am sick of circle filing parts that have tachspray marks from where they leached onto the surface
