Just found this clip on youtube… Very nice and “clean” way how to make 2 part mould.
[ame=“http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0uR6leKtJs”]Een twee delige mal maken door lamineren met gelcoat epoxyhars en glasvezel - YouTube[/ame]
I like very much that square tool with a pencil inside to draw a projection. How is it called?
Don’t know, but yes I was also very impressed how simple it goes with that tool. I’ll probably make that it seems very practical…
Cool video, that paste he puts around the fittings and tight corners, is that resin with chopped strands in?
I don’t think so, but it could be function is the same…
Seems pretty light on the reinforcements, would this mold not lack stiffness needed to get good dimensional accuracy and prevent warpage of a curing part. Read somewhere >5x the thickness of the part you plan to make, or is that overkill?
It really depends on your expectations and production needs. I like all my multi-piece molds that make seams to have flanges that are .75" (19mm) thick. This prevents the constant clamping pressure from altering the flange and making the seams fat.
Cotton flakes.
This movie is spoken in very boring dutch. I almost fell a sleep:bigsmile:.
You can also get by with a mechanical pencil, a little plywood, fiberglass, and CA (cyanoacrylate).
Hi wyowindworks, 19 mm is only flange thickness, right? and what is the thickness and the dimensions of your molds? are they small like in your pictures, or bigger?
It really depends on the mold. My larger molds have 19 to 20 mm thick flanges (fiber-epoxy/sand-fiber) with a 6 to 13 mm field (sandwich construction on thicker fields). My smaller molds that undergo 85 psi (6 bar) bladders have to be really beefy. They utilize really thick construction methods using casting operations with a fiber-reinforced face on the front and back. I just cast many non-bladder molds with epoxy and playground sand and an epoxy surface coat face. This ends up being cheaper than casting urethanes.
The fantastic voice-over of Fokke Ypma. Just woke up again…
Anyhow, the white paste is epoxy with cotton flock, and the carpenters square indeed is very nice. German tool I presume (as the movie is shot by Germans). I never saw them with a pencil holder in it. (carpenters squares, that is, not Germans…)
One small remark though: In the instruction it is suggested to undercatalyse the polyester putty. I would suggest not doing that, and probably not use polyester putty either. Done this way it provides plenty of adhesion possibility for the tool materials, making the whole flange stuck to the mould.
Also place the locating pins as much away from the part as possible, to prevent them from filling with resin. Especially if you like to make the 2 halves seperately, using infusion.
[QUOTE=herman;44502]The fantastic voice-over of Fokke Ypma. Just woke up again…
Anyhow, the white paste is epoxy with cotton flock,
Here the site in germany
http://www.motipdupli.de/index.php?L=2&id=803
Its called Putty Light
Somebody maybe know about this setup for the alignment of the mold.
It look like a 3 parts dongle and bolts
If you know a company who make this kind of sets i would appreciate Thanks
Carbonwinkel.nl is a distributor of R&G in Germany. However, they buy these things elsewhere. I am sure these are manufactured in the USA as well.
There are several other options as well, including wooden balls cut in half, blind rivet nuts, and the like.
If you want the mold to index well for many parts then a full length indexing key is the way to go. It’s the only way that I’ll make a multi-piece composite mold. I use pins for aluminum molds.
I agree with you
I also thought about pins, dowels etc… From the mold industry
But I like the 3pces setup that they use in the video
In fact I found its an "thread insert + a compression insert and the Allen screw "
The compression insert doesn’t have thread inside
I think this will be perfect for molds with flanges and choose the length of the Allen screw
cool vid, gives some ideas for sure
Anyone know when I can get these type of alignment fixtures in uk?