WOW anyone want to guess how they make these?

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#5

Galvanic corrosion occurs when two disimilar metals are brought into contact with an electrolyte. Remember in highschool physics class when the teacher took a strip of copper and a strip of zinc an stuck them in a lemon then put a voltmeter on them? A simple cell. In order for the current to flow one metal (the less noble anode) would give up its electrons to the (more noble metal cathode)metal. The anode would eventually disintigrate (corrode). Systems to prevent this are called “cathodic protection systems” and can be in impressed current (opposite and equal to the charge created) or sacraficial (anodes) which are designed to waste away (sacraficing themselvs) in favor of the structural metal.

It’s a good science experiment for those rainy afternoons with the kids stuck in the house. You can light a small LED with a lemon for a weekend.

#6

oh lol, I knew that but I thought that was called “voltaic”?

#7

I made a 3-piece mould for the 600RR tail piece 2 summers ago. I only needed a 2-piece mould for my 00 r6, because it didn’t have so many curves.

The seam lines can be buffed away as long as you have a nice layer of clear. They probably just put fiberglass on the inside to save money and for ease of layup. I did all mine with all carbon and it got a little hard in the nooks and cranny spots.

Either way, those look sweet. :wink:

#8

could you post pics of your 3 pc 600rr mold? I’d be very interested in seeing it.

Did you infuse?

#9

If I have a pic of it, it would be in the computer that is kaputt. My buddy is going to pop the hard drives out and transfer all that info and reinstall my computer, but I don’t know when he’ll get to it. I’d do it this weekend, but I have 1.5 gallons of epoxy to play with… :smiley:

It wasn’t the greatest mould and I gave it to my buddy who wanted to pop out some tails for his race bike. Then I got married (iow - quit racing :frowning: ) and haven’t seen him since.

My mounting points stunk, though. :wink:

BTW - I know nothing about infusing, prepeg, or any of that stuff :frowning: I can barely bag.

#10

All the parts are 1 layer carbon and all the others layers are Polyester. This way you save a lot off money but no any flexibility. Some companies make 1 layer CF, 1 layer Polyester cloth and 1 layer CF. This way is more strong and flexible.

#11

yea, its definetly all open molded, clear gelcoat sprayed on the mold, first layer is the show layer of carbon, then backed up with probally 1-2oz of chopped glass, polyester or vinylester used, after part is cured they spray the back with flat black paint to give a better cosmetic look for b-side and buff the front side

#12

I’ve infused tail sections in a two peice mold. Take the two parts of the mold, spray gel coat on each including the flanges, bolt the mold together, let b, lay in the fabric and infusion consumables (much easier with a formed silicone bag). The gel coat seals the flange and all you have left with is a hair part line if the flange was made well. If there was a close up pic of those parts you could tell which process they use.

#13

I can tell just by looking at the backside of there parts that it was open molded

#14

Yea I think your right. I didn’t look at all the pics. They’re also not moving enough of any one item to get into reuseable bags, unless they’re selling through other outlets. From the pics they look like decent quality for the price. And who are they fooling with that shipping price.

#15

open molded is the easiest fastest and cheapest method of making a part. shipping gets expensive, but it is also a good method on ebay to fool the customer to thinking they are getting a good deal if they arnt paying attention, I always am sure to check that before bidding

#16

what is open molded?

#17

it is just the traditional way of making a part, no vacuum bag or peel ply is used. material is wet out manually in the mold or on a piece of plastic and is rolled to get the air out. most common material used is chopped mat. works great but parts will have a 50-60+% RC, and will not be as strong if it was vacuummed do to its high RC. this is how most fiberglass/carbon parts are made when they are not structural parts due to its simplicity and effectivness

#18

Seems really strange that anyone wanting to make simple cosmetic parts, would want to mess around with infusion and epoxy resin systems!

Personally I cant see how it would be possible to make any money using vac/epoxy production method if competitors are using open mould with poly resin. But if there is no need to sell the finished parts, then that obviously doesnt matter!

#19

yes, I agree too, I try to stay away from infusion because it requires the most labor out of any other method, it has its applications but if you want to pump out parts and make money then open molded is the way to go on non-structrual cosmetic parts. some complicated cosmetic parts may require infusion due to its shape, but if they are simple then open-molded is good

#20

Sorry guys but I use only infusion for all my parts whatever the size, better part, more stronger and of course hmmmmmm more expensive:(

#21

thats cool, go infusion for the extra strength or just to make a more high-end part. the point I was making is that many parts that you only look at just dont require infusion and is just a waiste of time.

#22

yes I know hojo I understand your point and you are correct!!!:wink:

#23

hey george, are you running your parts as a full-time business or more as hobby? just curious, they look good

#24

Nope, is my hobby. To tell you the truth I have a lot of customer that wants to change all the carbon fiber because they like mine:eek: . To much work this days and I really, really comfuse. Now I have Kawasaki ZX12 and another Hayabusa full custom, Jetskis, Racing cars and I really don’t have time:)