Chemleas 70 works quite well after a proper sealing of the mold surface then again hows the mold made and the matireals used to make the part matter but I get multiple realeses
i used the sealer on an aluminum mold a few days ago.it was chemlease 15 sealer with chemlease 70 semi perm.i followed the directions.i even gave the sealer a heat cycle in the oven.then 4 coats of semi perm.so once i popped the part(slid right off).the mold was perfect.nothing stuck to it.im getting my confidence in this product back.i hope it works this well on my frp molds.
Another tip; do not wipe over the same section twice. you can over work the release. light coats in nice straight lines
I’ve found
Wax + pva = no
My part had gatoring and fisheyes, yet before I laid my gel it looked fine, I don’t know why it happened but I’ve steered clear of that, and also semi perm, too many coats and the parts just fall out, I guess making parts that’s good but for mouldmaking not quite as much lol 
I think I’m just not a fan of pva in general, as said above it seems to affect the parts surface and I don’t wanna have to spend so much time going over the parts repairing after I’ve made them
Sounds like you are getting the hang of it now!! Pictures yet?
well the pva is in the trash.i popped my first part this morning and it is perfect.it came right out with a little tug on the release ply.the mold is also ready to go again.well i need to fill a small pit that popped.so now i would like to know what will remove the semi perm so i can fill a small pit?
just dremel the pit, clean and fill it with gel coat, or surface coat depending what the mold was made from, no reason to strip all the release, just reseal and release locally after the repair is finished.
alright,thanks for the info.the mold is made from polyester and gel coat.i have been doing repairs with thickened epoxy and black pigment to match the black gel coat.this has worked well on other repairs.i was just wondering what i should clean the repair area with?so it will stick.but i suppose if i grind it.that should work as well.
acetone works well
Yes, acetone will work, but keep in mind:
Soak with acetone, then clean and dry with a clean cloth, before the acetone evaporates. Otherwise you might end up smearing the semiperm all around.
Gatoring is an effect caused by undercure of the gelcoat. To solve this do everything to get a better cure of the gelcoat, such as:
-higer temp
-more catalyst
-thicker layer
etc.
thanks for the advice on the acetone.the residue left behind is what i was a little worried about.
i have had the gatoring problem before in some of my molds.it was caused from applying a second coat too long after the first coat was applied.or starting the layup too soon.you want the gel coat to be firm and only leave a finger print without sticking to your finger.
so whats the trick to getting bag tape to stick to a semi perm treated flange?i did a test when i was treating the mold.it seamed to stick fine.well i found out it doesnt stick so well when i was laying down my bag.
dont put release where your sealant is. tape it off with 3/4" tape before applying release
thats kinda what i was thinking people where doing.i did get it to bag down with the semi perm.it took awhile though.once it started pulling some vacuum it started pulling the tape down.
As a rule of thumb, rinse 3 times to get rid of all the residue. The first time you might get rid of 90% of the stuff, the second time it will be 99%, the next time 99,9%.
Soak a rag, wipe, then rub dry with a clean cloth or paper. Change tags and paper a lot of times.
Which bag tape? Airtech AT200Y? I see that is it very popular in the USA. However, ask your Airtech sales rep to send you a sample of Airseal2. Much higher tack. (and a lot cheaper).
And if you do not like the high tack Airseal2, try Airseal1. It will at least save you some dollars.
thanks for the info.im not sure what my tape is.i buy it from fiberglass supply.its yellow color.i would prefer to leave the semi perm on the mold where the tape goes.at some spots on my mold i dont have a lot of flange.so resin can get right up to where the tape is.if its not released.it will be hell to clean up.ill look into these tapes you have listed.
Sounds like AT200Y.
Try the others as well. I do not do production work (wholesaler of materials) but we do have a glass table, which is completely in Ferro FS10 semi perm, which is a good thing, otherwise the glass sheet would have been busted long time ago.
your right,it is at200y.i pay 6$ a roll on a 10 roll sleeve.ill look into some other wholesalers.i need to start getting better deals on this stuff.
FYI: Airseal 1 or 2, in boxes of 40 rolls (300 meter) costs approx 70-80 usd. (if I am correct)