Tooling Dough How To

[jjprototype]

I mixed freeman’s surface coat by hand viscosity was 30000. Then brushed and hit the back with a heat gun to get rid of as many bubbles as possible. Biggest pain ever. After that i just switched to per gel coat. What’s the price on that mixer?

I have seen that problem (bubbles) with surface coats. The adtech surface coat used to do that and that’s one reason I don’t use it. It was a real pain. I’d have to continually keep gently brushing it to get pop the bubbles.Good idea with the heat gun. I now use Ren (Huntsman) 1124, I think it is, white surface coat. Freeman are dealers for Huntsman products.
Another advantage with this product is that there is an additive (acrylic, I’m told)that makes it possible to apply it and then wait up to 24 hours before continuing the next layer. Usually, of course, one has to start laminating when the surface coat has “B” staged or a good chemical bond is not made if one waits too long. This makes it possible to surface coat last thing in the afternoon, go home and start laminating the next morning.

I’ll check on the details of the mixer.

[jjprototype]

JJ: Nice work!

So you didnt use a fiberglass skin on top of the surface coat? And then back it up with tooling dough?

Glad to see someone is having success with it.

One secret is using a “coupling coat” between the surface coat and either the fabric (if you’re using some)or the tooling compound. This is made by mixing some of the tooling compound (DT081) with your laminating resin into a thick,but brushable “slurry”. This will fill small undulations in the surface coat and avoid air entrapment.

[JRL]

This is made by mixing some of the tooling compound (DT081) with your laminating resin into a thick,but brushable “slurry”. This will fill small undulations in the surface coat and avoid air entrapment.

Actually had good success doing exactly that yesterday.

Used US composites thick resin, black tint, aluminum poweder…came out awesome! Its amazing how much aluminum epoxy can soak up with out becoming doughy.

Trying to find a way to keep the thick resin from sagging…other than using cabosil.

And thanks for the review of the Adtech stuff. Thats what I was planning on using.

[jjprototype]

This is a partially complete hood mold I made using the Adtech system. As normal with an epoxy mold, I cut the fabric into ten inch squares for easier laminating and to avoid bridging. Also I lay them 90degrees first layer, 45 degrees second layer and 90 degrees third layer.

[JRL]

Nice! That stuff looks really pliable. Got to try it.

Who do you buy from?

I found these guys: http://www.expresscomposites.com/

They seem to carry Adtechs full line. Normally Id buy it from GE polymershapes but they always have to “special order” everything. Takes forever.

[jjprototype]

Nice! That stuff looks really pliable. Got to try it.

Who do you buy from?

I found these guys: http://www.expresscomposites.com/

They seem to carry Adtechs full line. Normally Id buy it from GE polymershapes but they always have to “special order” everything. Takes forever.

When I used a lot of Adtech products, I used to use Composites One,but they were a bit of a pain. I used Express recently for some adtech black filler (recommended by you?) and they were good.GE polymershapes have a dealer here in Indy but also never have the item in stock.
Don’t forget, you can use a different make of surface coat with the adtech compound. I get Huntsman products from White Pine Lumber, ask for Brett.